Uncorked: Greta Boccia-Read

By Joe Lutrario

- Last updated on GMT

The Counter restaurant Tunbridge Wells co-founder Greta Boccia-Read on wine
The co-owner of recently launched Tunbridge Wells restaurant The Counter on Barolo, Honey Spencer and East Sussex sparkling wine producer Rathfinny.

Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine

My first experience with wine was when I was a kid, my grandmother used to put a touch of red wine in my coke during our family’s Sunday lunch. Growing up in the southern Italy, wine was always a big part of our family gathering, but it was when I moved to the UK that I started to really grow a passion for it. 

Describe your wine list at The Counter

When we were opening the restaurant, I was trying to think about what I like and what I don’t, luckily my husband, Robin who is head chef in the kitchen, and I share the same taste in wine. All our wines are either English or European. We are lucky where we are in Tunbridge Wells, which is on the Kent and Sussex borders to be in the heartland of the English wine industry, so we are always having the opportunity to taste new styles, varietals and vintages. Our list at The Counter is a curated and interesting edit with a balance of accessible and food-friendly wines, and a few more interesting bottles. There is not one bottle that I don’t personally love. 

Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters? 

Once I mistakenly served a Chateau Ausone, Saint Emilion. My English was pretty bad at the time, and I think I misunderstood what I later on learned was a joke by the customer. They ended up drinking a very fancy bottle of wine without paying for it. I guess it made somebody happy, but not my boss, of course. 

Name your top three restaurant wine lists 

Evelyn’s Table in London was one of my favourite dinner experiences of my life, their wine list is absolutely stunning, and the staff are passionate and knowledgeable. Closer to home, we love Tallow in Southborough and The Small Holding in Kilndown which are both fantastic and have really good wine lists. 

Who do you most respect in the wine world?

I met Honey Spencer when she was at the Evelyn’s Table I fell in love with her confidence, attitude and passion for her job. 

What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?

Hoffman and Rathbone Classic Cuvee 2014 from Kent). It blew my mind when I tried it with our cured trout tart. Elegant, delicate, fresh and probably one of the best on the market, in my opinion. 

What are the three most overused tasting notes?

Complex, lemon and great acidity. 

What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?

Stina Cuvee Dalmatia, Jako Vino 2022 from Croatia. It is a very interesting New World wine with pleasantly unusual flavours of melon, apple, lemon, passion fruit and a beautifully long finish. This wine keeps surprising all our guests, normally people don’t go for a Croatian wine, but I always recommend this wine if they are looking for something light, easy to drink and food friendly. 

What is your ultimate food and drink match?

White wine and seafood. 

Old World or New World?

Old World but always trying to keep an eye open for the New World as well. 

What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?

Empty bottles upside down. 

Who is your favourite producer right now?​ 

I had the chance to talk with Mark and Sarah Driver about their Rathfinny wine estate in Sussex, when I was working at Firmdale Hotels. Their wines are fantastic which is matched by their passion and work ethic for what they are creating. 

What question do you most get asked by customers?

People are genuinely curious to know what we drink at home, and I love sharing my passion with them. 

Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?

Portugal is often considered the last option among other European countries such as France, Italy or even Spain when it comes to wine, but every time we offer Portuguese wine for our wine pairing people really appreciate it.  

It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?

Barolo, Arione Giacomo Conterno 2017. Barolo is the king of red wine.

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