Flash-grilled: Taz Sarhane

Taz Sarhane took over the reins at Cycene in August 2024
Taz Sarhane took over the reins at Cycene in August 2024 (©Cycene)

The head chef at Michelin-starred Shoreditch restaurant Cycene on what he learned from starting out as a kitchen porter, and an usual drinks pairing to go with a sausage sandwich.

What was your first industry job?

My first job was as a kitchen porter, and I’m glad it was. It taught me that no matter your position in the kitchen, everyone is to be respected.

If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?

Probably in the arts – I studied to be a photographer at university but gave it up because of the industry’s instability.

What industry figure do you most admire, and why?

The greats amaze me, but I have even more admiration for my young peers who are trying to change the industry. It’s easy to be a part of the puzzle, but it’s when you are starting fresh that it gets really hard.

What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?

Not folding microfibres.

Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence…

British ingredient-led, using preservation techniques to capture micro seasons.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?

Listen to what people tell you — it might not make sense at the time, but it may resonate with you in the future. Also, respect the ingredients; as chefs, we are nothing without them.

Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?

JB Prince offset tweezers. I have a panic attack if they disappear from the pass.

What would you choose to eat for your last meal?

Goat tagine in Taroudant, a city south of Marrakech.

À la carte or tasting menu?

Tasting menu every time — no filler dishes, always the chef’s choice.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?

Possibly L'Épuisette in Marseille, or maybe Peter Luger in NY. Both visits were about five years ago, but they left me with vivid memories.

What’s your favourite fast food joint?

Xi’an BiangBiang. The hand-pulled noodles are excellent, and there are plenty of options to choose from.

What’s the most overrated food?

Pasta pomodoro.

Who would your dream dinner party guests be?

David Attenborough, Dan Barber, Anthony Bourdain, Adrian Bell, Harriet Williams and Russell Strong.

What’s your earliest food memory?

Sitting on my kitchen counter, with my dad teaching me how to make Moroccan meatballs. Sharing food has always been important in my family, and I was involved in the kitchen from a young age.

Twitter or Instagram?

Instagram — I appreciate visuals, and it’s a great place to get inspiration.

Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?

The forest for a forage. It’s good to be connected with nature and to have a sense of the seasons. There is always something new to find and explore.

What’s your tipple of choice?

Vin jaune.

What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?

Avocado and banana milkshake with a sausage sandwich. Just can’t explain it.