What was your first industry job?
I was 15 years old and took a job as a tea boy in my uncle’s coffee shop in Thanjavur, my hometown. I made masala tea for the workers in the nearby offices. It was fast-paced and lively and was my first glimpse into the hospitality industry.
If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?
That’s a tough one, as I’ve always been drawn to food – but if I had to pick it would be my second love: cricket. I would have loved to have been a cricket player.
What industry figure do you most admire, and why?
Anthony Demetre of Wild Honey – he’s a very good chef, love his food and I think he’s totally brilliant. He shines when it comes to using the best sustainably sourced ingredients.
What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?
It has to be cleanliness. I’m a stickler for stuff on the floors.
Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence…
Good for health.
What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?
We once had a review saying the food had no flavour. All my Masalas are homemade with a ton of flavour. I though they might have had Covid.
What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?
Practice your knife skills, be on time, and keep your station clean.
Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?
I couldn’t live without a good, sharp knife.
What would you choose to eat for your last meal?
It would have to be my mum’s steamed idli (a savory rice cake) and slow-cooked lamb shank. It’s called mutton nalli and reminds me of my hometown. There’s nothing better.
À la carte or tasting menu?
À la carte for sure. I love over ordering and get dishes to share for the table. I’m a big fan of communal eating. Sharing is so intrinsic in Indian culture.
What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?
Not a restaurant, but my wife Sharmila makes the best sambar. Best served with potato varuval.
What’s your favourite fast food joint?
KFC. You can’t go wrong with the Colonel’s fried chicken drumsticks and chips.
What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?
Mini onion samosa filled with a simple onion masala. It’s lightly spiced and has a lovely crunchy batter. Enjoyed throughout the day. It’s well-loved in Tamil Nadu.
MasterChef or Great British Menu?
I’m more of a Sunday Brunch man.
What’s the most overrated food?
Bubble tea – it’s not for me. I think it’s the different textures.
You’re restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?
Ordering in a restaurant from a QR code – I like the face to face interaction with staff.
Who would your dream dinner party guests be?
My mum Vasuki, my daughter Janani, my business partner Glen and my friend Issey.
What’s your earliest food memory?
When I was young, my mum would always make mutton curry – it’s slow cooked on a low heat for hours. It would be served with idli and dosa. Along with a lot of households in South India, it was a staple our growing up.
Twitter or Instagram?
Instagram. It’s a great tool to share my food with customers and keep up to date with my family in India.
What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?
I forgot to place a ghee order once, I thought the chefs might kill me.
Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?
Number 90 in Hackney Wick. We used to be in a food hall in Hackney Wick and would regularly end up in Number 90 post shift.
What’s your tipple of choice?
Tequila over ice.
What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?
Chicken lollipops with chilli chutney and a pint(s) of lager.
What do you consider to be your signature dish?
My roti. I learned how to make – what I think – is the perfect roti/paratha in my uncle’s restaurant in India. When we opened The Tamil Prince [the highly-rated desi pub Durairaj launched with Tamila co-founder Glen Leeson in 2022], I knew the roti had to be a central component when it came to the menu. The restaurant has been renown for its roti, and that makes me happy. Buttery and flaky, yet soft with a slight chew. A few pints, a few curries and a few roti, and you’ve got yourself a delicious meal.
