The letter, addressed to ‘all those who benefit from the joys of dining out’ and published by The Telegraph, has been spearheaded by London-based chefs Sally Abé of The Pem and Dara Klein of Tiella, and signed by high-profile names including Chantelle Nicholson, Poppy O’Toole and Candice Brown.
It says that sexism ‘has been and remains a pervasive issue’ in the industry that ‘shapes the culture of kitchens in ways that diminish the potential and contributions of countless talented women’.
“We write to you with a sense of urgency, hope, and determination in a bid to change the narrative which denies our experiences and talents,” the letter reads.
“Our kitchens, dining rooms, and bars are the beating hearts of an industry that brings joy, comfort, and connection to countless lives. Yet, within these spaces, we face issues that must be addressed to create a more inclusive, equitable, and positive work environment for all.
“From inappropriate comments and behaviours to unequal opportunities for advancement, these experiences hinder not only individual careers, but the growth and innovation of our industry as a whole.”
The letter has been published as a direct rebuke to an interview given by Jason Atherton to The Times in which the chef is quoted as saying that he hasn’t witnessed sexism in professional kitchens.
In a post on Instagram, Atherton later clarified his position saying that he was caught off guard. “I didn’t feel it was my place to answer that question myself and tried to move onto another topic, by simply saying I hadn’t witnessed any sexism however those few comments have been taken out of context and used in the headline,” he said.
The letter also notes what it describes as the ‘pitiful representation’ of women at the UK’s Michelin awards last week.
“The lack of diversity celebrated within prestigious awards bodies such as Michelin and 50 Best is a reflection of broader systemic issues of privilege and racism,” the letter goes on to say.
“Over the past four years, only two women have been awarded Michelin stars. This is by no means representative of the female talent within the industry.
“We must confront these biases and work actively to create opportunities for chefs and hospitality workers from all backgrounds.”
The letter also calls for an end to separate awards categories for women at such events, describing them as ‘not fostering true equality’.
“We acknowledge that positive changes are already happening, thanks to the efforts of some dedicated individuals and allies,” the letter continues.
“We celebrate these achievements and recognise those who stand with us in advocating for equality and diversity.
“However, today we call on our colleagues of all genders to challenge and dismantle the harmful practices we’re highlighting.
“We implore you to help us to create a brighter, more inclusive future for our industry, because respect, equality, and support must be the foundation of every kitchen.”
The open letter in full:
To all those who benefit from the joys of dining out,
We are a group of 70 female chefs and hospitality workers, and we need you toknow that we are tired. Exhausted by an industry so systematically flawed that we struggle to see ourselves within it.
This week, we find ourselves outraged by Jason Atherton’s interview in The Times in which he appears to deny ever having witnessed sexism within his kitchens – a statement which we know, with absolute certainty, is not true.This, on top of last week’s pitiful representation of women at the UK’s Michelin awards, means that we can no longer sit in silence.
We write to you with a sense of urgency, hope, and determination in a bid to change the narrative which denies our experiences and talents. Our kitchens, dining rooms, and bars are the beating hearts of an industry that brings joy,comfort, and connection to countless lives. Yet, within these spaces, we face issues that must be addressed to create a more inclusive, equitable and positive work environment for all.
Sexism has been and remains a pervasive issue in our industry, shaping the culture of our kitchens in ways that diminish the potential and contributions of countless talented women. From inappropriate comments and behaviours to unequal opportunities for advancement, these experiences hinder not only individual careers, but the growth and innovation of our industry as a whole.
The lack of diversity celebrated within prestigious awards bodies such as Michelin and 50 Best is a reflection of broader systemic issues of privilege and racism. Over the past four years, only two women have been awarded Michelin stars. This is by no means representative of the female talent within the industry. We must confront these biases and work actively to create opportunities for chefs and hospitality workers from all backgrounds. Diversity is not just a goal; it is a source of strength, creativity, and resilience. By embracing and celebrating diverse voices, we enrich our culinary landscape, allowing us to freely interact with our customers and friends without barriers. In our view, the only way to do this is by rectifying the lack of women and people of colour in leadership roles, who can understand, cultivate and support talent at all levels through mentorship, training programs, and equitable hiring practices.
Moreover, we continue to be frustrated by separate awards categories for women. This does not foster true equality. By placing women in another category, we perpetuate the notion that their achievements are different or lesser. True recognition must be based on merit alone, and we urge award committees to eliminate these separate categories and celebrate excellence in all its forms, without distinction based on gender.
It’s no secret that our industry faces significant challenges, from economic pressures to changing consumer expectations. To weather these difficulties, we must futureproof our industry by creating inclusive and positive work environments, ensuring they have the tools and opportunities to thrive.
We acknowledge that positive changes are already happening, thanks to the efforts of some dedicated individuals and allies. We celebrate these achievements and recognise those who stand with us in advocating forequality and diversity.
However, today we call on our colleagues of all genders to challenge and dismantle the harmful practices we’re highlighting. We implore you to help us to create a brighter, more inclusive future for our industry, because respect, equality, and support must be the foundation of every kitchen.
In solidarity,
The 70
Signatories include:
Anna Haugh
Dara Klein
Helen Graham
Anna Tobias
Sally Abe
Mary-Ellen McTague
Joké Bakare
Selin Kiazim
Romy Gill
Sam Evans
Hannah Hall
Poppy O’Toole
Amy Elles
Harriet Mansell
Candice Brown
Betty Fox
Stosie Madi
Chantelle Nicholson
Vanessa Doward (Marx)
Anna Søgaard
Alice Bowyer
Julie Lin
Jane Alty
Rachel Stockley
Louisa Ellis
Mandy Yin
Michelle Trusselle
Roberta Hall-McCarron
Pip Lacey
Katie Smith
Marie Mitchell
Sami Harvey
Laura Kimber
Emily Skimming
Gemma Austin
Rhiannon Butler
Maria Georgiou
Sabrina Gidda
Philli Armitage-Mattin
Marguerite Keith
Jenny Collins