Lulu Perry: “I need to remind myself it’s about the journey not the destination”

Lulu Perry
Lulu Perry (©Jim Winslet)

The 21-year old chef at two Michelin-starred A. Wong on relocating from China to Ipswich, learning new techniques and not being afraid to ask for help.

In February this year, Lulu Perry was named Rising Star in the Chef category, sponsored by HG Walter, at the inaugural National Restaurant Awards Rising Star event. At just 21 years old Perry is already an important member of the kitchen team at the UK’s only two Michelin starred Chinese restaurant and before that cut her teeth at The Unruly Pig, the current Gastropub of the Year.

Tell us about your career so far…

I was born in Chengdu, Sichuan, China, and moved to Ipswich in Suffolk when I was six years old. I loved my food-tech lessons in high school so much that I took a level 2 course while I was in college. During college I got the chance to have my work experience at the amazing gastropub The Unruly Pig. After three-and-a-half years, my time there had come to an end and I moved on to my current workplace, A. Wong. I have been here since October 2022.

Why did you want to become a chef and has it so far met your expectations?

When I was younger I used to love watching my mum cook in our kitchen. As I grew older I loved cooking with my mum and it became one of my favourite pastimes. It was a way I could spend more time with her and it gave me a way to learn more about our culture and cuisine through her food, flavours and techniques. I believe it has exceed my expectations because it turned from an activity that was special to my mum and I, to now it becoming my profession.

A selection of dim sum at A. Wong
A selection of dim sum at A. Wong (©James Gillies)

Who has been your biggest influences and why?

I’ve been really lucky in my career so far to have met and worked with some amazing and talented people in the industry. I see myself admiring and being influenced by people around me who have a strong drive and determination in their passion, whether that’s in or out of the industry. Being surrounded and in the presence of people who have these mindsets allows me to work on achieving my own goals.

What are your responsibilities in your role?

To start the day, chef Wong and I will make xiajiao (clear prawn dumpling) together in the mornings. After that I will go into our development kitchen and work on some R&D for the restaurant. This allows me to work with new ingredients and flavour combinations. One example that we’re currently working on is a clarified milk punch recipe. This is something that excites me as this is a new technique I’m learning. Following R&D, I will set up for our dinner service. This allows me to see a lot of aspects within our kitchen and give a helping hand to any of my fellow colleagues.

What are the biggest challenges you’ve had to overcome?

The biggest challenge that I’m still currently working on is learning more about myself and trusting my own instincts. As I am still young I need to remind myself that sometimes it’s about the journey and not necessarily about the destination.

HG Walter - sponsors of the National Restaurant Awards Rising Stars Chef category

HG Walter is an independent, family-run butcher committed to providing every professional chef and home cook with an exceptional product and service to create exceptional food. Established in 1972 by Peter Heanen, it has grown to become one of the UK’s most respected butchers, supplying many of the country’s leading chefs and restaurants.

At the heart of HG Walter is whole carcass butchery - a craft that ensures every cut is used with care and respect. The business produces all its bacon, sausages, burgers, stocks, and bespoke products in-house, ensuring consistency, quality, and minimal waste. Dry ageing is a fundamental part of this approach, with all beef aged for a minimum of 28 days in a Himalayan salt room to enhance flavour and tenderness.

A deep respect for craftsmanship, sustainability, and quality has shaped HG Walter’s approach for over 50 years. This same ethos extends to its commitment to the future of the industry. By supporting the next generation of talent, HG Walter ensures that high standards of butchery, cooking, and hospitality continue to thrive.

As part of this commitment, HG Walter was proud to sponsor the National Restaurant Awards’ Rising Star Awards, celebrating 24 emerging chefs, sommeliers, restaurateurs, and front-of-house professionals shaping the future of British hospitality.

Rising Star Chef

What are the best and worst things about working in a professional kitchen?

The best part of working in a professional kitchen is getting to work with other chefs who are from range of different age groups and cultured backgrounds. I get to learn from their experiences and professionalism. The downside is I get less time to socialise with my fellow peers within the industry who are a similar age to me and going through a similar journey as I have. Since I’ve had the privilege to attend the National Restaurant Awards Rising Stars event it has been a great experience to meet my fellow peers and get to know their stories. Events like these are important as they allow young hospitality professionals to socialise with each other in a more relaxed environment. I’m looking forward to connect with them again at the National Restaurant Awards this summer.

What do you like most about your current role?

Being able to reconnect with my culture and cuisine since I moved to England and grew up here. I get to learn through ingredients and dishes that I’m familiar and unfamiliar with. I also get to learn a lot of techniques that are new to me but are more commonly found in Asian cooking. As a young chef who gets to work with a variety of ingredients and techniques, it allows me to expand my knowledge.

The interior of A. Wong restaurant
A. Wong's interior (©Murray Wilson)

What advice would you give to someone starting out in the industry?

As I am still quite young, I am still learning myself but some advice would be to not let doubt stop you from giving it a go. Allow yourself to always have room for improvements by asking questions and asking for help from fellow colleagues when you need it. Asking questions and for help doesn’t mean you are incapable of doing great things but it will allow you to expand your knowledge. From my perspective skill is also important but it can be perfected over time with practice.

What are your career ambitions?

To keep learning and expanding my knowledge, not just within the kitchen but within the whole of the industry. I look forward to seeing different cultures and embracing their own unique cuisines as I believe this will allow me to be more confident in my own palate. In the future I hope it will allow me to create dishes that will reflect me and the journey I have been on.