What: A ‘tribute to the best of New York hospitality in east London’ that’s opened above The Knave of Clubs, the recently launched Shoreditch pub that’s taken over the site previously occupied by Les Trois Garçons. While connected to the pub (see below), One Club Row is positioned as an entirely separate space – being the first time in the Grade II-listed building’s 145-year history that the first floor has been used as a dining room. To that end, the restaurant has its own – somewhat inconspicuous – entrance on Club Row: a smart black door topped with a deep blue awning that, save for a small light that illuminates when the restaurant has walk-in capacity, is surrounded on all sides by a confection of street art.
Who: One Club Row and The Knave of Clubs mark the first openings from High Note Hospitality, a new group founded by James Dye, co-owner of The Camberwell Arms, and Benjy Leibowitz, former JKS Restaurants director of strategic projects. For both The Knave and One Club Row, the pair have brought in chef Patrick Powell to oversee the food as culinary director. Powell joined the group having departed Allegra and The Midland Grand Dining Room last summer following a seven-year partnership with developer and hotelier Harry Handelsman. Under Powell, both Allegra and The Midland Grand were listed on the National Restaurant Awards Top 100 list, with the latter currently ranked at number 58. Working alongside Powell across both One Club Row and The Knave of Clubs is head chef Attila Gellen, who previously cooked at Allegra and Chiltern Firehouse.
The food: One Club Row’s menu is billed as being ‘inspired by the brasseries of Paris and taverns of New York’, and ‘rooted in simple, timeless classics, underpinned by the best seasonal UK produce’. It begins with snacks to share, followed by starters and mains with some salads, sides and larger sharing options. It’s an unashamedly crowd-pleasing offering, with big flavours and hearty portions. Highlights from the snacks and starters include the pickled jalapeño gougères (£9); the steak tartare with beef dripping bread (£14/£26); and the tuna crudo with smoked aubergine, creme fraiche and Amalfi lemon (£15). Mains include the One Club Row burger au poivre that comes with a jug of rich peppercorn sauce for dunking (£19); and a pork schnitzel with sauce moutarde, gorgonzola (£27). Bigger centrepiece sharing dishes for the table include whole lobster tagliatelle (£86); and bone in ribeye with chipotle hollandaise (£82). To finish, there’s a twice-baked chocolate cake with crème fraiche (£10); and Dutch baby pancakes, baked to order, with Chantily, blue berries, smoked bacon and maple syrup (£12).
To drink: The wine list here has an old-world focus with a rotating by-the-glass menu and a list of special occasion bottles. A selection of vermouths to start with and amaros to finish also features. The emphasis, though, is on the cocktail selection, which is split into four categories: sharpeners, martinis, not martinis, and after dinner. Martini options include a house option (£14) with Tanqueray 10, Punt e Mes, Dolin Bianco, maraschino liqueur and bitters; and an olive oil martini (£14) with Noilly Prat, Roots mastiha and mint olive oil. Other options include a Hemingway daquiri (£13) with Havana Club 3, lime, grapefruit juice and maraschino liqueur; and a Manhattan (£12) with Bulleit rye, Punt e Mes and bitters.
The vibe: The dining room has a glitzy and inviting energy that’s underpinned by its neat and friendly service. Leibowitz, who oversees the role of maître d’ here, previously spent a decade working in New York restaurants and the aim here is to embody that sense of old school hospitality for which the Big Apple is synonymous. The space itself has been lovingly restored, with original 19th century panelling, original fireplace and cornicing still intact, complemented by a series of prints from London artist Joy Yamusangie. The room seats 45 across its tables with a further 10 covers at the bar kept for walk-ins.
And another thing: High Note Hospitality has plenty of plans for the future, with Dye and Leibowitz saying they want to launch ‘several’ multi-concept venues in remarkable buildings across London in the next few years.
1 Club Row, London E1 6JX // oneclubrow.com/home