Flash-grilled: Luke Ahearne

Lita chef Luke Ahearne discusses his career
Luke Ahearne has led the kitchen at Lita since it was launched last year (2024) by Canadian-born restaurateur Daniel Koukarskikh (©Lita)

The chef behind Lita in London’s Marylebone, which was ranked at number 89 on the National Restaurant Awards Top 100 list 2025 earlier this week, on his career to date.

What was your first industry job?

My first real experience in the industry came when I was 16, working as a chef with Neven Maguire during my school holidays. I was supposed to be there for just a week, but I ended up staying the whole summer. It was a great experience and really cemented that this was what I wanted to do with my life.

If you weren’t in the kitchens, what would you do?

The only other job I ever wanted was to become a Formula One driver. I’ve never got a chance to try it so you never know what could’ve been!

What industry figure do you most admire, and why?

I think it’s quite hard to pinpoint one industry figure as there isn’t one single person I’ve modelled myself on. I’ve been fortunate to work with a lot of great chefs over the years and for me, it’s always been about taking something away from each of them. That said, Garrett Byrne from Campagne stands out as my biggest mentor. He’s someone I owe a lot to and have massive respect for.

What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?

I would say being untidy and disorganised. I can’t stand seeing a messy section - cleanliness and organisation are really important to me.

What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?

Not long ago, a guest came up to the pass, clearly a bit worse for wear. We had a slightly chaotic conversation about whether I was Scottish or Irish - definitely one of the strangest exchanges I’ve ever had.

Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence…

I would say my cooking style is simple but complex, rustic but refined, comforting, delicious, and made to be enjoyed.

What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?

We’ve been really lucky at Lita to receive some great feedback overall. We are always evolving and growing so I’d love for our guests to continue to come back and discover what is new.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?

Be a sponge. Carry a notebook, write down everything you hear, not just recipes, but tips, techniques, little bits of wisdom. Practice outside of work too. Work on your rochers even if you’re at home with a tub of shop-bought ice cream. It’s all about repetition, patience, and a constant desire to improve.

Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?

There’s so many things you can’t do without in the kitchen, but if I had to pick one it would be my knives. Without them, you’re not going anywhere.

What would you choose to eat for your last meal?

Something unapologetically indulgent. I love truffle and caviar, so a full menu dedicated to those ingredients would be the dream.

À la carte or tasting menu?

I’m usually more drawn to à la carte, but it really depends on the occasion and the restaurant.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?

El Rincón de Juan Carlos in Tenerife was a standout. It’s a two star Michelin restaurant, but in my opinion it deserves a third. The experience from start to finish was just exceptional - hands down the best meal I’ve had in years.

What’s your favourite fast food joint?

I’ll be honest, I’m not above a cheeky, late-night McDonald’s. There’s something about it at 1am that just hits the spot.

What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?

That’s not something I’ve ever really thought much about before, but I would say probably Tournedos Rossini. It’s such a rich, elegant combination of flavours.

MasterChef or Great British Menu?

Great British Menu. It really celebrates the depth of talent and creativity across the UK’s food scene.

What’s the most overrated food?

Molecular gastronomy, or rather the parts of it that prioritise appearance over taste. I want food that makes you feel something, not just look pretty on a plate.

You’re the restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?

Complaining and moaning. We work in a tough industry - a bit of positivity goes a long way.

Who would your dream dinner party guests be?

A mix of footballers and musicians. I’m a massive Crystal Palace fan, so some of the players would be there. I’d also invite Fontaines D.C. and Kneecap, seriously talented Irish musicians I really admire.

What’s your earliest food memory?

My mam bought me a toy kitchen when I was three, and I was already pretending to cook dishes from around the world. Food has been part of my life from the very beginning.

X or Instagram?

Instagram all day. It’s a great platform that enhances the visual aspect of things.

What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?

When I was younger, I unknowingly drove over a pipe bomb. Thankfully, it didn’t go off at the time, but it did later that day. That’s definitely the closest I’ve come.

Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?

I love relaxing at home with my partner and our dog. But I also enjoy catching up with friends in Dalston or heading to Selhurst Park to support Crystal Palace. It’s my biggest stress release backing the team you love.

What’s your tipple of choice?

It depends on the moment. I love good Champagne. In the pub, I’ll have a lager — Madri, 1664, or Peroni. When I’m back in Ireland, it’s always Guinness. With a nice meal, a great bottle of wine. And I’m partial to a well-crafted cocktail too. I guess you could say I’m a bit of an all-rounder, but I’m particular about quality and timing.

What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?

It might not be obscure, but it’s close to my heart — a pint of Guinness and a packet of Tayto crisps. I enjoy that combo of fast food with something fizzy, especially back home, is unbeatable.

What do you consider to be your signature dish?

Since opening Lita, a few dishes have really stood out. The Fuentes bluefin tuna with corn, peppers, capers and coriander is a favourite. Our strozzapreti with Aylesbury duck ragù and 36-month Parmesan is another. And our take on lemon meringue pie, using Amalfi lemons, is a real crowd-pleaser.