Flash-grilled: Paul Durand

Paul Durand launched Manifest with Charlotte Jones in 2022
Paul Durand launched Manifest with Charlotte Jones in 2022 (©Manifest)

The owner of Manifest in Liverpool on the dish that sums up his restaurant, which chef embodies punk rock, and why he hates QR codes in hospitality.

What was your first industry job?

Bartender. First shift was new year’s day and I’d never even pulled a pint before in my life.

If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?

It would have to be something physical. I’ll admit that I’m probably past being a professional footballer now so I’d like to de a farmer.

What industry figure do you most admire, and why?

Marco, that man did things his own way and was cool as hell while doing it. Proper punk rock.

What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?

Ripping parchment and tape, sounds small, but just use scissors.

What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?

That I was too Scouse. We’ve tried so hard to create an experience at Manifest that is a reflection of where we are from, so to be told I was too Scouse to speak to guests did make me laugh. You’re basically coming to my house for dinner!

Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence...

Flavour always comes first.

What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?

Giles Coren - he actually gave us an eight out of 10, which is a good score for him, but spent the whole piece taking about his friend’s dead cat and then stereotyped Scouse girls at the end.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?

Don’t follow the money, it’s a trap! Choose learning over salary. You’ll be grateful in the long run.

Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?

A Sharpie.

À la carte or tasting menu?

Honestly, I love both depending on the situation, but if I was pressed I’d say tasting. I think you can get a real sense of the person cooking your food.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?

Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy, with my wife. We love everything about Italy and it just seemed to capture the everything that we love about it. I wasn’t sure it could live up to the hype, but it was a magical dinner. A close second is the first time I went to the Parker’s Arms with my family. True Northern hospitality.

What’s your favourite fast food joint?

KFC.

What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?

Whoever came up with the rum baba was a low key genius. I’m a bit obsessed.

MasterChef or Great British Menu?

GBM.

What’s the most overrated food?

Avocado, why is it on everything?

You’re a restaurant dictator for a day — what would you ban?

QR codes and the rise of the machines. | want to interact with people.

Who would your dream dinner party guests be?

Keanu Reeves.

What’s your earliest food memory?

Bread and gravy instead of dessert after a Sunday roast. Still do it to this day. My grandad has a lot to answer for.

Twitter or Instagram?

Insta.

Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?

A dimly lit cocktail bar, preferably with some rock and roll playing a bit too loud.

What’s your tipple of choice?

A Gibson.

What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?

Good Champagne and fried chicken.

What do you consider to be your signature dish?

Probably our sweet onion tart. It’s been on the menu since day one. It sums up everything we are at Manifest.