Flash-grilled: Murat Kilic

Murat Kilic self-taught chef and restaurateur behind London restaurants Amber and Ara on his unusual accompaniment to crisps, cake making memories, and his cooking style
Murat Kilic moved to London from Turkey to train as an electrical engineer before transferring to the restaurant industry (©Oh Gravy! Media - Burak Can Aksit)

The self-taught chef and restaurateur behind London restaurants Amber and Ara on his unusual accompaniment to crisps, cake making memories, and his cooking style.

What was your first industry job?

When I was 14, I was working in a greasy spoon café in Walthamstow as a waiter on the weekends.

If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?

I would have loved to be a carpenter.

What industry figure do you most admire, and why?

The brainchild of Silo, Douglas McMaster. He and his team have inspired me so much over the years. I think they are changing the world.

What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?

I hate it when people do not put things back where they belong. It is a waste of time when trying to look for something.

What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?

A customer said they were coeliac, but didn’t mind sourdough bread.

Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence…

My cooking style is culturally fluid, blending flavours drawn from memory - sometimes from childhood, sometimes from entirely new experiences - always driven by curiosity and never bound by rules or fear of failure.

What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?

Nothing dramatic, thankfully — at least nothing that kept me up at night. I’m quite good at taking feedback on the chin and figuring out where we might’ve gone wrong. I’m honest with myself and aware of my limitations. That said, I do find it a bit funny (and mildly annoying) when feedback turns into recipe advice, like: “The cheesecake could have something crunchy.” Maybe... but for me that’s not feedback, that’s preference.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?

Focus on learning, not comparing. Stay curious, ask why, and absorb everything. Respect time, surround yourself with people who challenge you, and always communicate with thoughtfulness and respect.

Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?

A very sharp knife.

What would you choose to eat for your last meal?

Kuru fasulye, a traditional Turkish bean stew served with or without lamb, and bread.

À la carte or tasting menu?

Depends on the restaurant - sometimes à la carte, sometimes tasting menu.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?

The first time I travelled, I went to a restaurant called Osaka in Buenos Aires, and it completely blew me away. It was my first experience with Nikkei cuisine, and I was struck by the precision, boldness, and style of the food, it left a lasting impression on me.

What’s your favourite fast-food joint?

Does pizza count as a fast food? I can eat pizza from Pizza Pilgrims every day.

MasterChef or Great British Menu?

MasterChef.

What’s the most overrated food?

Avocado on toast, although I still have it on my menu at Amber.

You’re restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?

Disposable plastic gloves. I hate it when people working with them think it is more hygienic.

Who would your dream dinner party guests be?

My grandfather. I would have loved to meet him again as an adult.

What’s your earliest food memory?

I was 10 years old and obsessed with sweets. I had to teach myself how to make a cake, soak it in sugar syrup, and top it with pine nuts - which I had to forage from the forest nearby. Getting the pine nuts out of their cones and shells was incredibly hard, but I remember being mesmerised by how beautiful the shells were. That was probably the first time I realised that ingredients could be a challenge and a reward at the same time.

TikTok or Instagram?

Instagram.

What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?

When I was nine, I had a serious accident with a friend. He was riding a bike, and I was sitting in front of him. We decided, not very wisely, to cycle on a dual carriageway to get to a nearby supermarket. We were hit by a car. My leg was broken in three places, and my friend was in a coma for a week. Recovery took a long time, made harder by additional complications. As a result, my left leg is now longer than my right, something that’s caused back pain and physical strain since I was twelve. It’s something I still live with.

Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?

Nowhere - I never was a party person. However, I do love going to Broadway Market to my friend’s restaurant, El Ganso, and sitting outside enjoying a nice early evening over a pan con tomate and a glass of wine.

What’s your tipple of choice?

Rum, neat over ice. My new favourite is the Discarded banana peel rum.

What’s your favourite food pairing?

When I was a kid, I loved eating potato chips with strawberry jam; salty, sweet, and oddly satisfying. I haven’t done it in years, but maybe it’s time to bring it back.

What do you consider to be your signature dish?

Glazed lamb shoulder at Amber and mussels skewers at Ara.