Simon Bays launched Donny’s in London Fields as a tongue-in-cheek homage to his lifelong love of kebabs but closed it after it drew online criticism, with the proximity to Dalston’s longstanding Turkish community sparking debates around cultural sensitivity.
That decision has now inspired him to reopen the site as Donny’s Deli, a breakfast through to late night casual dining spot focused on community, London’s dining and music cultures, and top-quality local ingredients.
The sandwich-focused menu has been created by Auckland-born Huri Rapana Neil, whose CV includes Hero Sandwich House in Auckland, New Zealand, and The Marquee Moon in Dalston. It will include options such as the Big Brisket - txuleta steak, smoked for 16 hours by Uncle Hon’s BBQ in Hackney Wick, and served with dijon mustard and Swiss cheese; a chicken salad sandwich with chicken skin crackling and gravy dip; and a sauteed aubergine frites sandwich with garlic toum and romesco.
A singular Donny’s doner remains, featuring marinated chicken thigh with pineapple chilli, garlic yoghurt, salad, pickles and feta.
Breakfast dishes, meanwhile, will include the McDonny’s breakfast muffin made with scrambled eggs, confit onion, cheese, maple burger sauce; and fried eggs on E5 Bakehouse sourdough with toppings from local suppliers including Hill & Szrok’s thick cut streaky bacon and Fin & Flounder’s dill-cured chalk stream trout.
Desserts include the PBJ - brûléed French toast with peanut butter and blueberry jam; and a bread and pistachio cream pudding, while coffee will come from Flying Horse roastery, which is relocating from across the road to join the new deli.
Local East London suppliers are at the heart of Donny’s ethos: meat is sourced from Hill & Szrok on Broadway Market, smoking by Uncle Hon’s BBQ in Hackney Wick, seafood from Fin & Flounder on Broadway Market, bread from E5 Bakehouse, and drinks from Belly Dance.
However unintentional, I understand that impact matters more than intent, and that ignorance or naivety is no excuse. That’s why I chose to close after a month and built Donny’s Deli
Simon Bays
In August Bays issued an apology online addressing criticism his kebab shop faced around cultural appropriation and gentrification. He wrote: “The backlash has really made me think. I’ve asked myself if I’m a total idiot or a bad person - hopefully it’s just the former, as I know I’ve never had bad intentions or meant to upset anyone, especially not the communities who inspired this in the first place.”
He added: “This experience has made me question not just the branding (which featured a character with open shirt, perm and moustache and which was meant as a playful nod to 70s night-life and music culture), but the whole business. I’ve had to face the uncomfortable reality that I clearly didn’t fully understand the cultural dynamics at play - and yeah, it’s no longer lost on me that I’m a white guy who opened a kebab shop in Hackney.”
Community initiatives now play a big part of the relaunch, and Donny’s will donate £1 from every kebab sold to Medical Aid for Palestinians (MAP) and provide £500 worth of sandwich and coffee vouchers each month to vulnerable members of the local community. Donny’s Club offers locals coffee for less than £1 per cup.
“After listening to the criticism of the first version of Donny’s online, I felt deeply ashamed to have caused offence,” says Bays of the launch of Donny’s Deli.
“However unintentional, I understand that impact matters more than intent, and that ignorance or naivety is no excuse. That’s why I chose to close after a month and built Donny’s Deli - a place that still celebrates the food and music I love, but does so with respect for cultural influences and a genuine commitment to giving back to the community.’”
Donny’s Deli will open on 25 September.