The top line: The Dorchester’s long-standing grill restaurant has a new menu, name and chef. Following the departure of Tom Booton earlier this year, the five-star Mayfair hotel’s executive chef Martyn Nail has assumed full control of the space. The project is being billed as a return to the nearly 100-year-old restaurant’s roots, while also reflecting contemporary dining trends with some lighter options and a more flexible format with dishes in general designed with sharing in mind. Nail - who joined The Dorchester from rival Claridge’s a few years ago - will work alongside head chef Jacob Keen-Downs, who held senior roles at Notting Hill’s Gold and Hammersmith’s Sam’s Riverside.
On the menu: Nail’s menu is focused on updated grill room classics. Lighter options include Portland crab with Marie Rose sauce and apple; smoked salmon with soda bread; and blue fin tuna tartare with ponzu and avocado. Main course dishes include cheese soufflé with black autumn truffle, endive and mustard salad; a fish pie; grilled native lobster and a selection of steaks. There are also some larger ‘for the table dishes’ that include a beef Wellington and roast rack of lamb. Given the five-star setting, prices aren’t extreme with starters averaging out at about £16 and most mains priced between £30 and £40. There’s also a set lunch menu that includes Welsh rarebit on sourdough crumpet with pickled walnut and chives; steak with fries and peppercorn sauce; and sherry trifle that is competitively priced at £38 or £42 for two or three courses respectively.
The vibe: Unsurprisingly given the room had a complete overhaul in 2019 as Booton came onboard, the new team haven’t ripped it all up and started again. The space has broadly the same look and feel save updated lighting, reupholstered banquettes and a new display to the rear of the semi open kitchen. The dining room also has a shiny new fleet of trolleys with a number of its key dishes served tableside including steak tartare, beef Wellington and flambé (rather than baked) Alaska.
And another thing: Despite its name, The Grill by Tom Booton didn’t have a grill. Nail has put this right by installing two, one in the open part of the kitchen and another in the main kitchen.
53 Park Lane, London W1K 1QA // www.dorchestercollection.com