The top line: Dubbed as a more ‘playful’ and ‘rebellious’ sibling to former Soho House COO Martin Kuczmarski’s debut restaurant The Dover, Dover Street Counter (DSC) oozes a similar charm and sophistication but in a slightly more laid-back manner. The restaurant is inspired by the counter diners of 1950’s Los Angeles and is another example of what Kuczmarski does best - creating spaces that whisk its patrons away to a lost time when things were better.
On the menu: With The Dover, Kuczmarski leant into the notion of fine comfort food, with classic New York Italian dishes such as penne arrabbiata; spaghetti meatballs; roast beef and mash; and burger and fries, against a fine dining backdrop and at DSC he’s pushed this approach further still with a menu that wouldn’t look out of place on a diner but with dishes that have been elevated to match their surroundings. Snacks include disco fries with pickled chilli and ginger, mayo, and disco jus; buttermilk fried chicken with hot honey and sesame; and a tuna tartare coupe with rice crackers, avocado and citrus. Then there’s a generous selection of sandwiches that include a tuna melt; cheeseburger; French dip; and the ‘everything muffin’ (fried egg, smashed sausage, bacon, cheese, spicy sauce) and mains such as beef ribeye tagliata; big lamb meatball; Cajun baby chicken; and grilled half lobster. The Ozempic crowd and diners looking for lighter or healthier options are well catered for - a soups and salad selection features a green vegetable soup of cavolo nero, cabbage, and cannellini beans; mixed greens with avocado, seeds, and apple cider vinaigrette; and a ‘chop chop’ salad of mozzarella, lettuce, cucumber, tomato, and chickpeas. A dish of rye crispbreads and raw vegetables with pomegranate, aubergine, and labneh sits within the sandwich section and looks a bit out of place but no doubt meets a need state. The dessert selection is succinct, with options such as a chocolate choux ball; and apple and rhubarb pie (pictured above). Drinks wise, it’s business as usual, with DSC marking itself out as being as much a cocktail hangout as a restaurant. Unlike at its older sibling, where Martinis take centre stage, at DSC it’s the turn of the Margarita, with a six-strong selection from which to choose (all £14) alongside a selection of old school classics (all £16). Wines are predominantly from France and Italy and start at £37 a bottle and top out at £830 for a 2011 sassicaia.
The vibe: As the name suggests the counter is the hero of the dining room, with a stainless steel bar and kitchen counter as its focal point. The long narrow space lends itself to DSC all-day proposition - by day guests can perch at the counter and watch the chefs in action but by night they can also choose to head to the rear of the room that reveals a more intimate space for table dining as well as a private area. Design elements include glossy black lacquer parquet floors and walnut boiserie panelling while the sound system chucks out a 90s R&B and soul soundtrack. It’s all very cool and exceptionally classy.
And another thing: The launch of DSC is all the more impressive in that it came mere weeks after the opening of Kuczmarski’s second restaurant, the equally beautiful Martino’s in Chelsea.
31 Dover St, London W1S 4ND / www.doverstreetcounter.com