The acclaimed pub from Flat Iron founder Charlie Carroll, former The Fat Duck executive chef Ashley Palmer-Watts, and legendary London landlord Oisin Rogers, opened its doors in 2023 with a focus on classic pub dishes and expertly poured drinks. It has an in-house butchery and bakery with food cooked over wood embers and remains one of London’s best value gastropubs, serving a three-course set menu that includes langoustine, steak, and sticky toffee pudding for £29.
The Devonshire beat last year’s triple crown winner, Suffolk-based The Unruly Pig, back into second place, while fellow London institution, The Red Lion & Sun in Highgate, continued its climb up the list to take third place.
This year’s list was revealed yesterday (26 January) at a ceremony held at Plaisterers’ Hall in London, with chefs Tommy Banks, whose pub The Abbey Inn was ranked 13th in this year’s list, and John Hooker from the Cornish Arms, which took the number 10 spot, and their teams providing the meal for guests.
Debuting at number nine, Lancashire-based pub The Rum Fox was the year’s highest new entry, while the highest climber was the Dog at Wingham, which jumped 36 places back up the list from 48 to 12.
Sustainable Pub of the Year was awarded to the Wild Rabbit, based in Kingham, Oxfordshire, which placed at number 45, and Chef of the Year was awarded to Ayesha Kalaji, who runs Queen of Cups in Glastonbury.
Queen of Cups, which takes inspiration from Kalaji’s Jordanian and Welsh heritage, also made its debut on the list, raked at number 42.
Tommy Banks’ newly opened pub with rooms The General Tarleton, in Harrogate, north Yorkshire, was named this year’s One to Watch.
“We’re delighted to see The Devonshire recognised for the superb work it does in creating memorable food experiences,” says Ed Bedington, editor of The Morning Advertiser, which organises the Top 50 Gastropubs.
“They’re no strangers to praise and attention, but this is a real achievement in such a short space of time.
“This list reflects the sheer passion, innovation and excellence that exists in the food pub sector, and I’d like to praise all of the pubs on the list for flying the flag for the gastropub sector and setting standards for others to envy.”
The Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs list is compiled using hundreds of votes from food critics and writers, gastropub chefs and other food influencers.