Uncorked: Félix Soler
Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
Rather than a specific, enlightening moment it was more of a journey in my case. I’ve always been connected to wine through the vineyards of my grandfather, it was in my early twenties when the interest resurfaced. By cultivating my interest and knowledge, I became more interested pursuing it as a career.
Describe your wine list at Lisboeta
We have a dynamic and eclectic wine list that is fully Portuguese. We try to find a balance of more traditional styles with newer approaches, usually grown organically or biodynamic with lower intervention at the winery.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
So far, I have been lucky enough to have not dropped anything expensive but I have come across a few expensive out of condition bottles during my time. From an oxidised bottle of 1989 Castillo Ygay to a 2006 Meursault by Coche-Dury.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
KOL, Soif and HIDE (all in London).
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Hard to pick just one. From educators such as Richard Lane and Michelle Cherutti-Kowall MW to winemakers like Eulogio Pomares and Jorge Moreira.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
Probably the 2021 Definido white by Carlos Moreira.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Mineral, floral and ‘funky’.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
A 100% Loureiro from 2014 by Quinta da Palmirinha. Even though the wine is not overtly-complex, the definition of aromas and their intensity are unmatched. We sell this at £69 a bottle which given the quality of the wine and the years of bottle ageing it has seen make for a great value wine.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Tomatoes on toast with Alicante Bouschet.
Old World or New World?
Old World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Poor knowledge of their own wines list.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
I am lately fascinated by the Carlos Raposo wines, especially his whites. He has put so much effort and passion into starting his own project, and subsequently what he has achieved with his first vintage (2018) is thought-provoking. His philosophy and approach to both sourcing grapes and winemaking along with his confidence and the quality of the results has left me captivated.
As a head sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
As a sommelier at a purely Portuguese restaurant, people ask me about the origin of the name of the region of Vinho Verde quite a lot.
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Dão, in north central Portugal. The region offers a large amount of different indigenous varietals made in a wide range of styles with superior quality.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Vina Tondonia Reserva white 1991. There are emotional reasons behind this pick, this was the first long-aged white that really moved me.