Uncorked: Chris Frayling-Cork

The sommelier at Chelsea’s Dinings SW3 on James Lloyd, South African winemaker Ntsiki Biyela and swapping a career in medicine for a career in wine.
Nominative determinism at its finest: Chris Frayling-Cork swapped a career in medicine for a career in wine two years ago (©Dinings SW3)

The sommelier at Chelsea Japanese restaurant Dinings SW3 on James Lloyd, South African winemaker Ntsiki Biyela and swapping a career in medicine for a career in wine.

Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine

I count myself very lucky that we always enjoyed nice wine at home. But when I attended medical school, I was usually reaching for whatever was cheapest rather than what was best. My wine ‘awakening’ came when I opened and tried a 2004 Leoville Barton at my first hospitality job – I had never realised than wine could be so complex (or delicious) – I was hooked from then. Two years ago, I left my job as an NHS doctor for a career in wine. One of the things that has really attracted me to the world of wine is how much there is to learn (and continue learning) – in that way it’s a lot like medicine.

Describe your wine list at Dinings SW3

As a restaurant in the heart of Chelsea, we have focussed on classic producers from the Old World – specifically Burgundy and Bordeaux. We keep the list quite short (only 200 references), and have made sure that there are wines at all price points, and reflects great winemakers from all over the world in addition to France. We also have an extensive list of sake.

Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?

I think I’m lucky so far – I haven’t had a super expensive disaster yet (fingers crossed!), the worst mistake I’ve made was when opening a bottle of sparkling wine in a private dining room – the bottle slipped out of my hand and exploded over the floor. Thankfully no one was hurt (or covered in wine), but it was a pretty embarrassing clean up.

Name your top three restaurant wine lists

Mountain, Le Colombier and La Trompette (all in London).

Who do you most respect in the wine world?

If I’m allowed two people – Jiachen Lu (head sommelier at CORD by Le Cordon Bleu) and James Lloyd (ex-head sommelier at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay). Jiachen was leading the wine team at Dinings SW3 when I joined and came from a background in law. It was brilliant working with someone who not only has such a deep knowledge and enthusiasm for wine, but also came from a similar academic background to myself. I still miss working the floor with her and peppering each other with nerdy wine facts. I’ve also been working with James Lloyd in the past few months on the wines at Dinings SW3. His passion for passing on his huge amount of knowledge and experience has been incredible for myself and the rest of the sommelier team.

What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?

I recently tried a pure varietal Dafni from Lyrarakis at a tasting of Greek wines.It takes its name from the bay leaf plant in Greek, and you get the most intensely herbaceous character from the wine, unlike anything I’d tasted before.

What are the three most overused tasting notes?

Mineral, zesty and fresh.

What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?

For the quality of wine you get for the price, I would have to say our recently added Aslina Chardonnay from Stellenbosch (£80). It’s a beautifully fresh and complex wine that punches well above its price point, and the journey that the winemaker (Ntsiki Biyela) has been on is absolutely awe-inspiring.

What is your ultimate food and drink match?

Spicy tuna maki roll and an off-dry Alsace Gewürztraminer.

Old World or New World?

If I had to choose I would go for Old World, but I think that the lines between them are getting more and more blurred. You have producers on both sides working in ways that might be considered unconventional in the Old World or overly traditional in the New World. It’s a really exciting time for wine overall.

What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?

I really dislike it when you have just sat down, and within a second of opening the wine list you get a sommelier or waiter coming over to ask what you would like to drink.

Who is your favourite producer right now?

I don’t think I can put my finger on one producer, but I had the pleasure of meeting Matt Thompson from Blank Canvas wines in Marlborough, New Zealand. I think his wife Sophie Parker-Thompson (MW) and himself are making some of the most terroir-driven and powerful examples of wine from New Zealand.

As a sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?

I think the question would be “do you have any dry white wine? When I started as a sommelier I thought it was a bit daft as the majority of white wines we offer are dry. I love the opportunity to explore what guests enjoy drinking when they’re at home, and to encourage them to try something different.

Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?

I think that Greek wines are starting to make a big comeback onto the British market. You get fantastic value and the varietals are so interesting and gastronomic. I find that a lot of guests are still anxious about Greek wine, maybe because of a memory of poor quality Retsina, but I’ve had so many guests come back time and time again for Greek wines after trying them at the restaurant.

It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?

A bottle of 1990 Petrus, shared with my family and friends around a roast lamb Sunday lunch. A legendary wine, but I wouldn’t enjoy it if I wasn’t sharing it with those I love.