Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
It all started in my childhood when we were making wine with my grandfather at home. I can still remember the smell of the fermenting must in the tiny wine cellar.
Describe your wine lists at The Dorchester
The sommelier team and I strongly believe that every wine making region needs to be represented on our list. We want to increase the offering of lesser known areas and grape varieties. Our areas of strength are Champagne, Burgundy, Bordeaux and Italy. We are constantly working to expand our wine list, trying to offer unique collections and library bottles.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Andrew Edmunds, The Connaught and Noble Rot (all in London).
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Everyone involved in wine production. The meticulous process of winemaking involves countless hours of manual labour, attention to detail and a deep understanding of the craft. From cultivating the vines to nurturing the grapes and overseeing fermentation, the dedication of wine makers is evident in every bottle. Respecting their hard work acknowledges the artistry and passion that transforms a humble grape into an exquisite wine, creating an experience that transcends taste and reflects the vintner’s commitment to their craft.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
We had an incredible tasting here at the hotel with Angelo Gaja, we opened vintages of his Barbarescos back until 1958. But they also brought along some whites. When I opened the 1989 Gaja and Rey which is made with Chardonnay), I was in shock. The wine was so alive, with an incredible complexity which wasn’t showing any sign of the age at all. I am on the hunt for some bottles for my personal cellar.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
I hate descriptors such as notes of berries, hints of oak and crisp.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Domaine Wachau, Riesling Achleiten 2000, (£150). Unfortunately, Riesling is not appreciated by consumers as much as I think it should be. It is a wine of great complexity, structure and it can age really well. I believe Austria makes incredible wines, especially on the Danube River, on the very steep slopes of the Wachau area.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Champagne and Parmesan cheese. Simple and delicious.
Old World or New World?
I am discovering the New World much more. I recently visited South Africa and fell in love with the mentality of the winemakers and their approach to winemaking. I am planning to visit Chile soon. Fewer restrictions and laws applied in the New World allow winemakers to experiment and challenge their limits.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
I hate when a sommelier wants to impose a wine choice. I am always open to suggestions and recommendations but often I see other sommeliers who are not listening to their guest’s preference and taste. This drives me mad. I always pretend I know nothing about wines when dining out. My partner hates it.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
I don’t have only one. I can say that I am in love with Mullineaux whites, Vina Tondonia Blanco from Lopez de Heredia, and Charles Heidseick Blanc de Millenaires. Andrea and Chris Mullineaux are making structured whites, with finesse and elegance, age-worthy wines. Vina Tondonia is a classic, a deliberate oxidative style that I have been collecting for ten years. Charles Heidseick lanc de Millenaires is a surprise, every time I open a bottle it reminds me how good Champagne can be.
As a head of wines, what question do you most get asked by customers?
Which is your favourite wine?
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Dry wines from Tokaji are surely underrated, the region offers textured and complex white wines from the volcanic soils. Several producers are crafting amazing wines, but wait a few years and you’ll see where the quality will arrive.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
I would go for a bottle of Romanee Conti. If it’s my last meal hopefully I won’t have to pay for it.
