Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
My first lightbulb moment was whilst at technical college aged 16, during a wine module being given a Pouilly Vinzelles to taste, at that time we did not drink wine at home and I thought ‘wow, this is great’. I have been a wine lover and collector ever since.
Describe your wine list at LimeWood
Our list which is overseen day-to day by Dan Warham and his team has all the hallmarks of a classic list but not shy about hero’ing wines from the New World and especially our local English wines.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
Several years ago we had a substantial theft from our cellar at LimeWood, the thieves knew exactly what they were doing, only stealing the very expensive bottles including First Growths, along with several bottles of Romane Conti and Screaming Eagle, all very upsetting. After that we took the security much more seriously.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Noble Rot and The Waterside in the UK and the encyclopaedic La Tour D’Argent in Paris.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
I have in recent years become chairman and a substantial investor in the English Sparkling wine producer Sugrue South Downs. The founders Dermot and Ana Sugrue are amongst the very best winemakers in the UK. But unlike some of the larger, more well-known UK producers, they are true artisans, their hands have touched every bottle of Sugrue produced. Making outstanding quality wine in our climate, ‘on the edge of viability’ requires complete dedication in the vineyard and the winery, but to make world class wines like we do at Sugrue takes a certain craftsmanship and magic that deserves huge respect. Dermot and Ana have just released their first still wine – ‘Bonkers’. it’s a multi-vintage Chardonnay made in the solera way with controlled oxidation. It has had some rave reviews including Jancis Robinson who has said this is “a new chapter in English winemaking”.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
Vin Jaune ‘En Spois’ 2016 from Benedict and Stephane Tissot. I drank this with Dan Keeling at Noble Rot recently. It had been a long time since I had drunk Vin Jaune, this version is dry and spicy, very moreish. I immediately ordered some for my personal cellar.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Mouthfeel, exotic fruit and cigar box.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Anything at the top end of the list where the margins are much lower than at the lower end of the list.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
I love to pair humble food with great wine, I think it’s the best way to enjoy it. So a bacon sandwich with a glass of Manzanilla or a good glass of claret with bangers and mash.
Old World or New World?
So long as the wine is made with care by a good producer and from a good year then I am completely open to wine from wherever.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Overfilling glasses or topping up too regularly, forcing the guest into buying another bottle.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
I love the Chassagne Montrachet from Jean Noel Gagnard. The winemaker Caroline Gagnard just makes beautiful wines.
As an owner, what question do you most get asked by customers?
Is English sparkling wine as good as Champagne? The answer is yes.
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
England.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
A great red Burgundy like a Gevrey Chambertin from Rousseau or Romanée Conti.
