What: The London outpost of Rome restaurant Agrodolce. Launched in 2018 close to the Italian capital’s famed Trevi Fountain, Agrodolce (which translates as bittersweet) inevitably attracts a fair few tourists but has been well-received by the locals too for its traditional take on Roman cuisine and contemporary decor.
Who: The Charlotte Street restaurant is the creation of the Roman-born Antonio Russo and his Russian wife Maria Soldatova. “Our aspiration has always been to share the authentic taste of Rome with the world, to give Londoners and travelers alike a chance to experience a piece of our beloved city in the heart of London,” the latter says. “We bring our philosophy of fatto con amore - made with love - into everything we do, from our dishes to our approach to hospitality.”
The food: Agrodolce’s menu majors on classic Roman dishes but throws in a few international Italian crowd pleasers for good measure including a beef carpaccio with Parmesan and truffle; and burrata with Prosciutto di Parma. Other dishes include suppli (Roman fried rice balls); pappardelle with white ragú, cheese and rosemary; saltimbocca (veal escalopes with Parma ham and sage cooked in Marsala); and tiramisu. Rome’s quartette of famous pasta dishes - cacio e pepe; Amatriciana; carbonara; and gricia - are given their own section on the menu and are just as you’d find them in Rome (and very good value at £16 a throw given the portion size and quality). The restaurant is also offering a three course lunch for a very reasonable £25 per head.
To drink: Agrodolce offers a tight wine list (fewer than 30 listings) of exclusively Italian wines bar one Champagne . Prices start at £27 a bottle or £7 a glass and top out at £97 for a Amarone from Bertani. Cocktails include the Agrodolce Spritz (Roma, prosecco and soda).
The vibe: The pair have taken the site of notably short-lived risotto specialist All’onda for their London debut. The decor hasn’t changed that much, which is an understandable decision given that the space’s previous occupant only traded for about two months. Design details include beige walls, chandeliers, deep green marble tabletops with golden edges and vintage crockery sourced from Italian markets.
And another thing: Russo told Restaurant that he sees London as the stepping stone to establishing a global presence for Agrodolce. Should the project be a success the plan is to open more in other key international cities.
www.agrodolcelondon.uk
67 Charlotte St., London W1T 4PH
