Uncorked: Richard Gladwin

Along with his brother Oliver, Richard Gladwin oversees five London restaurants including The Shed in Notting Hill and Rabbit in Chelsea
Along with his brother Oliver, Richard Gladwin oversees five London restaurants including The Shed in Notting Hill and Rabbit in Chelsea (©Local & Wild)

The restaurateur behind the five-strong Local & Wild group on Coudoulet de Beaucastel, his family’s own Nutbourne Vineyard in West Sussex and falling into a tank of Pinot Noir.

Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine

I was introduced to the world of wine at a young age. When I was seven, my parents moved to Nutbourne Vineyard in West Sussex. I vividly remember our first harvest and being allowed to taste the freshly pressed juice and then witnessing its transformation into fermenting wine. That early experience sparked my lifelong passion.

Describe your wine list across your restaurants

Our wine list is curated to showcase the best wines from around the world, carefully selected from each region. Over the years, I’ve built strong, personal relationships with growers from some of my favourite vineyards, spanning Tuscany, Champagne, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhône, New Zealand, Australia and the US.

Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?

While working at a vineyard in New Zealand (which shall remain unnamed), I was navigating a row of 15 open-top fermenting tanks filled with red wine. I lost my footing and fell straight into the Pinot Noir fermentation. Let’s just say it was an immersive experience.

Name your top three restaurant wine lists

10 Greek Street, The Watermans Arms and La Colombier (all in London).

What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?

Able Chardonnay from the Able Tasman region in New Zealand. James Healy of Dog Point, alongside his daughter and son-in-law, have meticulously planned the vineyard, focusing solely on a Chablis-style Chardonnay. It is epic.

What are the three most overused tasting notes?

Rounded, buttery and floral.

What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?

Coudoulet de Beaucastel (from the Rhône). While not exactly a budget wine, it’s remarkable value. It’s a Château de Beaucastel from across the road: a tremendous wine. We are very lucky to have a large allocation.

What is your ultimate food and drink match?

Sussex Reserve from my own vineyard paired with a spicy chorizo. At the restaurants, it’s one of our most popular dishes and we serve it in a loose-style with a hung yoghurt. The combination is phenomenal. Salty, tangy, and really satisfying alongside our amazing English wine.

Old World or New World?

New World, although I do love Burgundy.

What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?

Pulling the foil off. Just cut it! The producer has spent time presenting the wine as it should be enjoyed.

Who is your favourite producer right now?

Famille Perrin (in the Rhône). They produce exceptional wines across all price points, and I always enjoy visiting their vineyards.

What question do you most get asked by customers?

‘How was this year’s harvest in Nutbourne?’

Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment

Obviously, I am biased but English wines have come so far and excitingly still have such a long way to go. We’re now producing spectacular Chardonnays in good vintages, consistently ripening Pinot Gris, and even seeing some promising reds on the horizon. It’s an exciting time for English wine.

It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?

Nutty Vintage, because I have been a part of making it for the past 34 years. Then some Pommard to polish it all off.