What: Located at the Railway Tavern in Dalston, Little Earthquakes is a new Chicago style pizza restaurant that follows on from a short residency of the same name at brandy distillery and bar Burnt Faith in Walthamstow in late 2024
Who: It’s being led by former Temper chef Neil Rankin and From The Ashes BBQ, the barbecue business that was launched in Hackney Wick by Martin Anderson and Curtis Bell in June 2020 following a meeting in Temper the previous year. Rankin not only has form in the world of barbecue having worked in restaurants such as Pitt Cue Co as well as Temper but also in the world of pizza. The first iteration of Temper Covent Garden saw him create a menu that focused on Detroit-style pizzas and his plant-based ‘meat’ brand Symplicity has previously partnered with pizza restaurant group Homeslice for its vegan options.
The food: This time round Rankin has turned his attention to deep dish Chicago style pizzas, and his particular versions have been described as the ‘cheesiest in London’. The singular-looking cheese crowned six-inch pizzas feature sourdough made using Wildfarmed regenerative flour and a crispy pecorino and mozzarella cheese crust as well as British and Italian produce, mostly sourced from local shops and businesses around Newington Green. Inspired by Rankin’s childhood memories, pizza option include the Taleggio and Guanciale, which is based loosely on a traditional carbonara; the Salami Ragu, made with a twist on a traditional ragu incorporating fennel salami instead of beef and pork; and the Ring of Fire topped with a nduja made from fermented tomatoes, pickled chillies and dried Calabrian peppers. Other dishes, described simply as ‘not pizza’, include Cobble Lane charcuterie; Symplicity meatballs; cheesy focaccia with a butter honey dip; and caponata parmigiana.
The vibe: As a Dalston local; Rankin’s choice of the Railway Tavern means he lives just a few streets away from his new venture. Located on the corner of St Jude Street and King Henry’s Walk, the pub dates back to the 19th century and is known for being a key part of the local community with its weekly pub quiz and music sets. Diners can sit in the main bar area, which features 1950s panelling bearing film memorabilia and local art and watch the chefs at work at the counter overlooking the pizza oven. Rankin says that due to the highly complex proving system of his ‘one of a kind’ dough, serving times are limited to a first come first served, when it’s gone it’s gone basis, so expect it to be busy during peak times (6-9pm every Tuesday to Friday, 3-9pm on Saturdays).
And another thing: Little Earthquakes is also the name of the debut solo album from renowned singer Tori Amos, which was released in 1992.
2 St Jude Street, London, N16 8JT