Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
There are a few things that stand out, but the most defining one happened when I was a supervisor at Brian Maule at Le Chardon d’Or. It was a quiet lunchtime service, and Stephen Russell, managing director of Inverarity Morton (a drinks supplier), was hosting a table. He had ordered a fino sherry as an aperitif, and when I brought it over, he asked if I had tried it before. At that point in my career, my experience with sherry was limited, and what little I had tasted, I didn’t particularly enjoy. Hearing this, he immediately responded “It’s not that you don’t like it: you just haven’t found the right one yet.” That moment changed my approach entirely.
Describe your wine list at Number One
It’s a balance between classic prestige and modern discovery. With around 360 bins, the list has a strong foundation in Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux, while also showcasing top producers from the New World and lesser-known wine regions. For me, the wine list is as it should be: approachable and not overwhelming. It’s important that everyone, whether they’re new to wine or a Master of Wine, feels comfortable exploring the list. At its core though, the list reflects my philosophy: quality first and always, but with a sense of adventure.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
I did have one memorable mishap while working as a bartender in Glasgow. I managed to spill a glass of red wine on a gentleman wearing a white Lambretta t-shirt. To make matters worse, he was on his way to a show that evening, so as you can imagine, he wasn’t exactly thrilled. Thankfully, the management team handled the situation brilliantly, making sure the guest was taken care of and, just as importantly, reassuring me that mistakes happen.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Askham Hall (in Cumbria); Unalome by Graeme Cheevers (in Glasgow); and Claridge’s Restaurant (in London).
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Any winemaker deserves immense respect for their dedication and commitment. Right now, two producers I particularly admire are Trimbach and Ken Forrester, both for their consistency and the incredible wines they produce. Closer to home, Charlotte Gordon (of Moët Hennessy UK) stands out. We bonded instantly over wine when we first met and have remained friends ever since. I truly admire her passion; especially for Champagne.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
I had the pleasure of attending a paulée event with Greg Lambrecht of Coravin. We blind tasted my favourite grape, Cabernet Franc, but this was from the Nagano prefecture of Japan. I have had the pleasure of trying lots of Asian wines, but this was something else.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Crisp, fresh and aromatic.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Bear with me on this one, but in terms of outright value, I’d say our Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Duvault-Blochet, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 2019. Thanks to a special agreement, we’re able to list it at (if not slightly below), its retail price.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
I recently had a match that I can’t stop thinking about. While in Argentina, I had the pleasure of enjoying Asado. As you would expect, it was served with several different reds. However, the standout pairing with the barbecued beef was actually a 2003 Catena Chardonnay. The richness and complexity of the wine perfectly complemented the smoky, savoury flavours of the meat.
Old World or New World?
Old World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Lectures. For me, wine service is about the experience, not the textbook details. I love hearing the story behind the wine; the passion of the producer, the history of the vineyard, or the uniqueness of a particular cuvée. But when someone starts listing off generic details about the label or goes into too much detail about a vintage, it can feel more like a lecture than a conversation.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
It’s almost impossible to pick just one favourite, but the producer I always find myself coming back to is Trimbach. I have a real love for Riesling, and for me, Frederic Emile and Clos Saint Hune are two of the best examples of Riesling in the world.
As a sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
“Did I train to become a sommelier?” “What qualifications do I have?” “Where did I learn all this?” Many guests are surprised to hear that I’ve only ever lived and worked in Scotland.
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Bizarrely, I would say South Africa. While it’s well-known, it’s often still associated with mass production and supermarket wines. The quality South Africa produces, along with the incredible variety of wines, is truly underrated.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Well, they always say you should go out with a bang, so it would definitely be Champagne. And for anyone who knows me, it’s no surprise that I’d choose Dom Pérignon. If I had to pick one, it would be the Oenothèque 1996. It’s the pinnacle of Dom Pérignon; 1996 was an exceptional Champagne vintage, and, on a personal note, it’s also my vintage, which makes it even more special.
