Uncorked: Mustafa Kapustrev

The sommelier at Leydi on Turkey’s Thrace region, Chateau Kalpak and the very real dangers of opening sparkling wine incorrectly.
Launched last year, Holborn's Leydi has one of the largest selections of Turkish wine in the capital (©Leydi)

The sommelier at London restaurant Leydi on Turkey’s Thrace region, Chateau Kalpak and the very real dangers of opening sparkling wine incorrectly.

Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine.

I am from the Thrace region in Turkey, an area that is renowned for its diverse and vibrant wine production, so I grew up with a passion for wine. My favourite teacher at school was a wine producer and owned a vineyard. He specialised in Mavrud, a local grape variety, and his passion and knowledge of wine really inspired me. I could see firsthand how the land, culture, and history intertwined with the wines produced in that region.

Describe your wine list at Leydi.

At Leydi, our wine list is a true reflection of Turkey’s diverse and vibrant wine culture. Around 40% of the wines we offer are from Turkey, as it’s such a unique and diverse wine-producing region. The selection ranges from affordable options to more premium wines, with our most prestigious offerings coming from the Thrace region.

Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?

I’ll never forget my first day as a waiter in England at a restaurant in Canary Wharf. I spilled a glass of red wine down a customer’s shirt. To make matters worse, this customer was from JP Morgan. Luckily, my boss had a few spare shirts in his storage, and we managed to quickly get him changed.

Name your top three restaurant wine lists (excluding your own!).

For Turkish wines, I highly recommend The Mantl (in London)– they have a fantastic and diverse selection of Turkish wines. For French wines both Bouchon Racine and Le Port de La Tour (both in London) do a great job curating a list that captures the essence of French wine.

Who do you most respect in the wine world?

Ogul Turkkan. He is a highly respected wine and beverage professional, and his contributions to the Turkish wine industry are immense. His passion for wine and his dedication to promoting Turkish wine on the global stage is truly inspiring.

What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?

Recently, I’ve come across Château Kalpak, a Turkish wine that truly impressed me. It’s a prestigious wine from the Thrace region, with a rich, full-bodied profile and firm tannins. It’s complex, with deep, layered flavors. At £160 a bottle, it’s certainly a splurge, but it’s worth every penny for the depth of character it offers.

What are the three most overused tasting notes?

Honey, butter, and smoky. While they can certainly describe certain wines, I think they’re often applied to wines that don’t necessarily showcase these characteristics in a meaningful way.

What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment, and why?

Our 2021 Chamlija Albarino-Marinice. It’s priced at £68, which is an excellent price for the complexity it offers. It has a layered taste with primary, secondary, and tertiary aromas. The wine has vibrant acidity, is crisp, and is aromatic. It’s perfect for pairing with lighter dishes or enjoyed on its own.

What is your ultimate food and drink match?

For me, the ultimate food and drink pairing is a high-acid white wine, like Paseilia Sidalan, with our meze and starters—things like hummus, atom, and cacik. The acidity cuts through the richness of the dishes and brings out the flavors beautifully.

Old World or New World?

I’m definitely an Old World person. I have a deep appreciation for Turkish culture, which has its roots in the Ottoman Empire. The mix of cultures, religions, and history in the Old World resonates with me. It’s not just about the wine, it’s about the tradition and the story behind each bottle.

What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?

One thing that really bothers me is when a waiter isn’t careful opening Champagne or sparkling wine. It’s not just about the showmanship, it’s dangerous. I recently heard about six people a year die from bottles being opened incorrectly.

Who is your favorite producer right now, and why?

Right now, I’d have to say I’m really enjoying the wines from Chateau Kalpak. They specialise in a Bordeaux-style blend. Their dedication to producing wines of exceptional quality and complexity is something I truly respect. The wines capture the essence of the Thrace region and showcase the potential of Turkish wine.

As a sommelier at Leydi, what question do you most get asked by customers?

A lot of our customers are curious about Turkish wine, and they’re often surprised by its quality and diversity. People don’t always know that Turkey is home to over 1,000 different grape varieties, many of which are unique to the country. They are often amazed to learn how the wines are made in such extreme conditions, with some regions growing grapes in temperatures ranging from 30-50°C.

Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?

I would say Turkish wine is still underrated. However, as Turkish cuisine continues to grow in popularity worldwide, people are starting to recognize the potential of Turkish wine as well. Turkish people are very proud of their wine heritage and are becoming more inclined to drink their own wines. Other underrated regions include South Africa and Bulgaria, which also produce excellent wines.

It’s your last meal, and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it, and why?

Chateau Kalpak is my stand out in the world of wine and happy to say it’s Turkish. It has a unique and refined character that is hard to find elsewhere. The vineyard’s terroir lends the wine a distinct quality, combining elements of Old World tradition with New World innovation. The perfect balance of elegance and boldness that continually impresses me.