Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I grew up with parents in hospitality—though I was always told not to go into it, given the long hours and hard work. I don’t think there was one single moment of interest—just a moment of clarity that this is what I actually want to do.
Describe your wine list at Story Cellar
The wine list at Story Cellar covers a bit of everything, making both more classical and some unusual wines accessible. The location and the food bring in a good mix of people, so we never know what will be the big seller on any given day.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
Valentine’s Day at Portland (in London’s Fitzrovia), I opened a bottle of Champagne tableside and it most likely hadn’t had enough time to chill. The path between tables is rather narrow there, and the bottle immediately started gushing, spraying Champagne like a fountain. My reptile brain must have taken over to spare the guests from getting drenched, so I leaned over the bottle and covered it with my body—getting completely soaked myself, to the amusement of all my colleagues.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
I don’t think I have a top three, but lists I like and admire—for the work that must have gone into them or their approach to wine—are Dorian, Row on 5, and Josephine Bouchon (all in London).
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
So many people, but someone I worked for—and who is not only an incredible sommelier but also has a great eye for simple measures that can improve and streamline service—is Xavier Rousset.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
I got a sneak peek at a Pinot Noir from Balfour Estate (in Kent), which really impressed me.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
I’d hate to pick a favourite, but potentially the 2017 Boekenhoutskloof Cabernet Sauvignon from South Africa. It hits the sweet spot between development and freshness.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
It’s always the simplest things. When I visited Islay ages ago, I learned that they add a dram of whisky to fresh oysters and eat that combination. It still impresses me with how delicious it is. I’d personally go with a little Old Pulteney.
Old World or New World?
I find myself focusing more on wines from the classical European countries, but when I’ve done that for a while, I usually spend some time rummaging among wines from outside those regions.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
No pet hate. I believe that as we develop on our journey as somms, we’re bound to make certain mistakes—and we should learn from them. So you’re bound to see the same mistakes or unpolished behaviour elsewhere, but usually that’s just a snapshot of someone on their path.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Honestly, I don’t have one. There are producers I will always return to, but no favourite at the moment.
As a head sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
What they should be drinking. To me, there isn’t a “should” or “should not.” Some pairings might not be the smoothest, but you should drink what you feel like.
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?I
have always loved Portugal. The focus is still mainly on the classics like Port and big, bold reds, when the country has so much more to offer.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Aile d’Argent 2009 – exquisite yet affordable.
