Uncorked: Christina Gladilina

Lita sommelier Christina Gladilina
Originally from Saint Petersburg, Christina Gladilina has created a predominantly European list with a focus on Burgundy, artisanal Champagne, and Northern Italy (©Lita)

The head sommelier at Marylebone restaurant Lita on dry German Riesling, Jérôme Prévost’s Fac Simile rosé and getting a taste for wine at a very early age.

Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine

When I was baptised at the age of five, I was given a teaspoon of sweet red wine. I thought it was so delicious that I dreamt of having a whole pot of it to myself. Yes, that’s genuinely how I imagined wine was stored. Later on, while working as a waitress, I was inspired by the sommelier at the restaurant. He was generous with his knowledge and passion, which gave me clarity about what I wanted to pursue within the hospitality world. That passion still holds true today.

Describe your wine list at Lita

The wine list at Lita is a personal reflection of my taste and philosophy. It’s predominantly European, with a focus on Burgundy, artisanal Champagne, and Northern Italy. I’m particularly drawn to rare, small-production wines from independent producers, bottles that carry a true sense of place. I think that’s the essence of what we call ‘artisanal’.

Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?

Early in my career, a regular guest asked me for a recommendation for a nice red Burgundy. I brought him a bottle of Vosne-Romanée and, embarrassingly, also presented a Châteauneuf-du-Pape simply because it looked similar and was stored nearby. He pointed out (kindly but firmly) that I’d brought him a wine from the Rhône Valley, not Burgundy. I was mortified. That moment drove me to study rigorously so I’d never repeat the mistake.

Name your top three restaurant wine lists

Dorian, Planque and Noble Rot (all in London).

Who do you most respect in the wine world?

Those with broad horizons, intellectual curiosity, and genuine passion. Whether they’re winemakers, sommeliers, or suppliers. It’s about love for people and the craft.

What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?

Fac Simile Rosé by Jérôme Prévost, which I had the pleasure of enjoying at Sacré Burger in Reims. It’s a unicorn wine, nearly impossible to find and absolutely unforgettable.

What are some overused tasting notes?

‘Minerality’ and ‘complexity’ top the list; they’re incredibly subjective and often abstract. ‘Ageing potential’ is another one that’s frequently overused without enough context.

What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment (and why)?

I keep the markup quite low on all grower Champagnes, and many guests comment on the value. I’ve also priced rare bottles like Château Rayas and Gianfranco Soldera’s Casse Basse Brunello very reasonably. Wines of that calibre deserve to be appreciated, not just collected.

What is your ultimate food and drink match?

Spaghetti with clams, chilli, and parsley paired with a Ligurian Vermentino, or Korean fried chicken with fries and a Meunier-based Champagne. Pure joy.

Old World or New World?

I try to explore and appreciate the New World, but my heart still belongs entirely to the Old World.

What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?

When I’m served a corked or oxidised wine by the glass and the staff instantly get defensive. I wish more would re-taste the wine without ego. Sometimes it really is just flawed, and that’s okay.

Who is your favourite producer right now

Tom Myers of Cantina d’Arcy. I had the chance to sit next to him during a lunch at Trullo with Keeling & Andrew. He’s a Piedmont geek in the best way, and his wines are focused, perfumed, and individual. But more than that, he’s genuinely fascinating to talk to, about wine and life.

As head sommelier at Lita, what question do you get asked most by customers?

“Is the Riesling dry?” Most people assume German wines are inherently sweet, which is such a shame. Dry Rieslings like the Grosses Gewächs from Pfalz by Bassermann-Jordan or Christmann are absolutely stunning and deserve more love.

Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?

As mentioned, Germany, especially the dry Riesling, are underappreciated in the UK market. Also, I don’t see enough demand for grower Champagne yet, but I’m doing my best to change that!

It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?

Échézeaux 2018 by Cécile Tremblay. I’d pair it with o-toro sashimi, sushi and a roll set. It’s a combination that feels transcendent, intellectual, indulgent, and the perfect final toast.