Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
Growing up in Hungary, I was lucky enough to taste exceptional 5 or 6 Puttonyos Aszú as a teenager. We’d open those prestigious wines for birthdays and other celebrations.
Describe your wine list at Fantômas
We’re the first restaurant in this group (Fantômas is from the same stable as Goodman, Beast, Wild Tavern, Belvedere and Lita) to spotlight New World wines. There’s a strong by-the-glass selection, with a particular focus on the US, especially California. We also feature some beautiful bottles from South America and Japan.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
A 2008 Krug Rosé slipped out of the restaurant manager’s hand in the kitchen. The bottle broke in half — and there was still some Champagne left in the bottom. That’s how I first tasted vintage Krug Rosé.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Noble Rot, Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, and Shoreditch Wine House.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
I’ve worked with some incredibly passionate sommeliers, all of whom have become great ambassadors for the profession. I won’t name names — that would be unfair to the others — but they know who they are.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
Domaine Takahiko Nana-Tsu-Mori Pinot Noir 2022. It encapsulates Japan’s authentic gastronomy — unexpectedly savoury, salty and mineral.
What are some overused tasting notes?
“Mineral” is number one!
What’s the best-value wine on your list right now?
Athénaïs de Béru’s Aligoté, which we list at £112. She makes magical wines from this often-overlooked grape.
What is your ultimate food and wine match?
Dark chocolate desserts with a fruit-driven still red wine.
Old World or New World?
New World, all the way.
What’s your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
When the sommelier starts acting like a WSET educator, bombarding guests with winemaking terminology.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Dr Laura Catena — an Argentine vintner, physician and author. I met her when she hosted a masterclass at Hedonism Wines last year. She’s highly intellectual and transmits her passion for wine and the industry in a truly fascinating way.
As a sommelier, what question do customers ask you most often?
When we talk about dry white wines, many guests ask: “Is it sweet?”
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Argentina and Greece come to mind immediately.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Champagne Salon. Fewer than 40 vintages have been released in the past 100 years.