At the Church Road site that was once home to chef Greg Clarke’s short-lived Mexican restaurant El Bolillo, Marea by Rafael Cagali is to be positioned between the chef’s flagship restaurant and the more casual Elis, which is also located in Bethnal Green Town Hall.
Cagali and his protégée Ewan Waller — who will lead the kitchen day-to-day as head chef — are understood to be aiming to create Brighton and Hove’s most refined dining experience.
The arrival of São Paulo-born Cagali marks a significant development for Brighton and Hove’s dining scene.
Although the city’s restaurant scene has flourished in recent years, it hasn’t had a Michelin-starred venue since the late 1970s.
Over the past decade or so a number of chefs have created restaurants with Michelin ambitions but nobody has managed to attract a star as yet.
Meaning ‘tide’ in Italian — a nod to Cagali’s maternal heritage — Marea’s menu will feature small bites, hot and cold small plates, mains, sharing dishes, and desserts.
Front-of-house operations will be led by co-owner Charlie Lee, Cagali’s partner and the general manager at Da Terra.
Marea will serve up to 38 guests on the ground floor — including seating at the central bar counter.
While the space is undergoing some modifications, it will retain much of the aesthetic of El Bolillo when it reopens this September.
“Marea is a concept that truly excites me,” says Cagali, who has an impressive cooking CV that includes time with Heston Blumenthal, Quique Dacosta, Martín Berasategui, and Simon Rogan. “It’s about bringing the highest-quality ingredients and innovative techniques to a setting that feels welcoming and accessible.
“We want guests to experience exceptional food in a convivial atmosphere — a place where they feel at home while exploring new flavours. Brighton and Hove excites me as well — the town appreciates quality ingredients, and its independent restaurant culture has grown in recent years.
“I’m ambitious with Marea - I want it to become one of the most highly respected and beloved in the region.”
El Bolillo shut earlier this year after trading for just under six months. The casual yet ambitious restaurant served contemporary Mexican dishes made with high-quality British produce.
The former directors of El Bolillo are understood to be partnering with Cagali and Lee on the project.