Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
My father loved red Bordeaux, and my parents often hosted lunch and dinner parties. I remember my father once offering me a taste of wine at one of these gatherings. I was probably seven or eight. It was Pontet Canet 1970, his favourite. I was amazed that this fruity red liquid also tasted of so many other things.
Describe your wine list at Harry’s
Like our food menu, we’ve focused on sourcing wines locally. It seemed odd to champion local produce but ignore that principle when it came to wine. Early on, I realised we had the largest list of English wines in the country - perhaps still true, though others are catching up. English white and sparkling wines are really shining now. Reds are still finding their feet, but I think it’s only a matter of time, especially for pinots, before they start to surprise people.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
About 30 years ago, I did a booze run to France to buy expensive red Burgundy for a New Year’s Eve dinner. When I opened it that night, it was completely undrinkable - possibly counterfeit.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
The list at Arlington (in London) isn’t huge, but every wine is well considered and sensibly priced. I like knowing there won’t be any surprises or the need for a WSET Level 4 to navigate it. Elystan Street (in London) has a similarly unfussy feel. Phil Howard’s food is both effortless and beautiful, and the wine list reflects that - thoughtful choices that clearly match what’s on the plate. Bouchon Racine (in London) is another favourite - yes, I’m biased because Henry’s brother Matthew is our head chef - but it has that same thoughtfulness. You can feel the presence of the owner in every decision.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Jancis Robinson. She’s semi-iconic in a still male-dominated world of wine critics and has made wine more accessible while gently educating people along the way.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
A fantastic Grüner Veltliner in St Anton - Ried Gaisberg 1ÖTW. We were in a tiny restaurant run by a passionate couple, and they insisted we try it. It was lovely.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
All of them. I’ve reached a point where I either like it or I don’t.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Some of our most expensive wines offer the best value. I believe knowledgeable guests will recognise that we’re not inflating prices just because a wine has a well-known label.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Roast woodcock and Côte-Rôtie.
Old World or New World?
Old World. I prefer the softer, less fruit-forward style of older Bordeaux and good red Burgundy. I’m sure there are New World wines like that too, but I haven’t had time to explore them properly.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Constant top-ups. I always ask the team to leave the bottle on the table - we’re happy to serve ourselves. That said, I’ve been to a few serious restaurants where wine service happens so discreetly your glass is always perfect without you even noticing.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
In England, Gusbourne and Oxney. Gusbourne has pushed English winemaking to new heights - it’s remarkable how far things have come in ten years. And Oxney, led by the driven Kristen Syltevik, makes delicious organic wines without the deep pockets many larger estates rely on.
As an owner, what question do you most get asked by customers?
“Why did you decide to get into hospitality - aren’t there easier ways to make money?” Yes, there are. But few professions allow you to exchange happiness for money so directly. Being able to improve someone’s day and see them leave happier than when they arrived - that’s the best kind of business.
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
England. There’s still a lot of outdated snobbery about the quality - mostly from people who either haven’t tried English wine or haven’t revisited it in years.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
A double magnum of Langoa Barton 1996, which I drank at my daughter’s 21st seven years ago. If I could freeze that moment - the wine, the format, and my family around me - and have it again on my deathbed, that would be pretty epic.