Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I started as a chef to avenge my mum’s terrible cooking skills. In the second year of cooking school we had our first wine tasting. That’s how I fell in love for the first time, specifically with a glass of Gewurztraminer.
Describe your wine list at Row on 5
The wine list at Row on 5 is impressively extensive. We offer a wide selection of wines by the glass from rare grape varieties like Hungary’s Kadarka to iconic, mature classics such as the legendary 1979 Pétrus. Our wine pairings are curated to suit a range of tastes and experiences, with four distinct options. Our bottle list features a staggering 2,400-bin selection that spans the globe, from China to Ukraine, across all price points. While the list is internationally diverse, the heart of it lies in the classic regions, with a strong emphasis on French wines, particularly from Burgundy and the Rhône Valley, reflecting my personal passion.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
Never let me near a silver service tray stacked with empty plates heading back to the pot wash. My last great career catastrophe? At Sketch, I managed to drop one—right onto the Champagne trolley. A symphony of disaster followed: several Zalto flutes shattered, and to top it off, a bottle of Selosse Exquise went down with them. The cherry on the cake? It all happened in full view of the guest entrance.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Paulette in Paris for the value, Sketch for the work on back vintages and Cabotte for its Burgundy selection.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Fred Brugues (wine director at Sketch). He is an incredible mentor, a humble gentleman and definitely my career model.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
The 1938 Massandra White Muscat (from Crimea, Ukraine) is just still full of life, complexity and generosity. God, I want to age like this!
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Minerality, masculine and feminine.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
We have a magnum of Gramenon Mémé 2020 (from the Rhône). The last vintage made by Michelle (Aubery). I can easily picture myself slurping it down with a willing accomplice.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Mackerel, toasted sourdough, a healthy amount of butter and a bottle of fresh Riesling kabinett. Who needs a lover when one has this?
Old World or New World?
Old.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Dirty glassware… yikes!
Who is your favourite producer right now?
I love Arnaud Ente. I’m really looking forward to see the purest expression of top Chardonnay ageing.
As a Row on 5, what question do you most get asked by customers?
“How long did it take you to write the wine list?” To be fair, it looks more like a grimoire than a wine list.
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
I’d say China is unfairly burdened with a poor reputation when it comes to wine quality. Changing perceptions takes time, of course. The climate and winemaking approaches there differ significantly from European norms, which likely shapes the general public’s mindset. But the truth is, China is producing some genuinely exciting wines.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
I love old Jurançon, and Clos Joliette is my kryptonite. Everything about this winery, the story, the winemaking, has a special quality that speaks deeply to me. 1970 vintage, made from 100% Petit Manseng as a dry white, shows layers of quinine and white truffle that seem to linger forever. It’s the kind of wine that would make your last meal feel almost eternal.
