Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
From about six years old, my parents had me well trained, opening and pouring wine at family dinners. Wine was always my go-to for teenage house parties too — it may only have been a bottle of Syrah from the Tesco Finest range due to budget restrictions, but I can safely say I never sank to the depths of Yellow Tail. The interest has always been there; it’s just developed in different ways through my career.
Describe your wine list at The Chalk Freehouse
It’s comforting — it doesn’t push the boundaries too far. We offer a good pub list with some interesting options as well. The selection will be developed as we grow.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
I’ve been fortunate enough not to have too many disasters. One of the most harrowing things I saw, though, was a bottle of Opus One 2002 being served to a hotel resident to go with a treacle tart in their room. We received the decanter back three days later with only a glass taken from it. Nothing was wrong with the bottle; they just only fancied a taste.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
I have a lot of love for the Drapers Arms. The most impressive I’ve seen is the list at Arlberg Hospiz Alm in St Christoph — it certainly didn’t fit into any value category, but it did wow. It’s unfortunately no longer there, but the Bull & Bear’s (Tom Kerridge’s now-closed Manchester restaurant) list I still hold in very high regard — it was interesting and diverse, with some very special wines from Gary Neville’s private collection.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Samantha O’Keefe’s story at Lismore is incredible. To have learnt her wine craft from scratch and to overcome the hardships she’s faced, I think she’s an outstanding woman with some incredible wines.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
We were trying through the portfolio at Rolly Gassman in Alsace back in May, which is pretty extensive — but the stand-out was Menchreben de Rorschwihr Muscat from 2003. The balance and complexity of tropical fruits with a really fresh acidity, and then the delicate spice to it, made it superb to drink and learn about.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Smooth, earthy and fruity. They’re all very vague.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment? (and why)
I think our Bedoba Saperavi is amazing value for the quality you get! People can often look down on Georgian wine because it’s not something they recognise, but it’s their loss.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Connor Black’s Orkney scallop with citrus cream and a glass of Tokaji 5 — just sublime.
Old World or New World?
I have a lot of appreciation for New World and love to explore it, but it has to be Old World. It takes a lot to beat Super Tuscan reds.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
I’ve had a stemless wine glass a few times at places trying to be quirky. It’s not cool.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
I loved my time meeting Axel Pauly. I found it a perfect blend of tradition and innovation. You end up with these outstanding clean flavours and sharp acidity. Trying his wines in the surroundings of the Mosel, you can taste every expression of the environment. It’s a special place.
As a general manager, what question do you most get asked by customers?
“Where’s the toilet?”
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
We had a recent trip visiting vineyards in the Mosel and Alsace, trying over 100 different Rieslings. If you can’t find something you love within the endless variations of flavour, then maybe wine isn’t for you.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
2015 Sassicaia. I tried the 2018, which was incredible, so I think it’s only right to finish on the 2015.
