Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I can remember trying a “fine wine” for the first time - a California Chardonnay from my local wine shop in Brighton, likely around the £14 mark; approximately double what I was spending as a fresh-faced 18-year-old. In retrospect, it probably wasn’t a great wine - over-oaked for sure - but I’d never experienced a liquid that was so cloying and rich before. I wanted to understand why.
Describe your wine list at The Marksman
The list reflects our diverse clientele. I always try to cover every base at every price point, within what we think is really well-made and interesting wines. If someone wants some effervescent natty juice, we have it, and we can comfortably accommodate your uptight in-laws with big reds or silky white Burgundy.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
Fortunately, nothing in my professional life stands out. I’ve been lucky thus far. A time of wine disappointment does stand out, however. It was my partner’s and my anniversary — I’d been saving a Domaine de Chevalier 2007 Grand Cru to enjoy, only for it to be fully oxidised. Gutted.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
A wine list that I’m consistently excited by — one that constantly evolves, develops and grows — is Goodbye Horses (on the Islington–Hackney border). It feels like every bottle is there with purpose, across all price points. I can’t talk about great wine lists without mentioning Timberyard in Edinburgh. I feel like I should have made two reservations — one to take in the extensive list and another to dine. A fantastic experience for a wine lover. The Drapers Arms (in Islington) also deserves a serious shoutout. I love the freedom of being double-parked with a pint and a cracking bottle that a pub offers.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
For me, it’s all those who taught me along the way - my old managers, wine executives and sellers. Throwaway comments from them about back vintages or pruning techniques stayed with me for whatever reason, and I pass this on to those who are learning now. The best thing about wine for me is the continuous learning and conversation.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
A friend brought a rather obscure Merlot, blanc de noirs, that had been seriously oaked. No idea who made it or where. I can’t say I enjoyed it, but it was definitely one of the more intriguing bottles I’ve had.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Jammy, toasty and earthy.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
It may seem almost too obvious, as it’s the international house white of natural wine bars: Sassi Bianco (a wine from Abruzzo made with Trebbiano). Reliable, quaffable, agreeable. I can scarcely find a wine that presents better value for money, and you can sell it to any demographic.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
The child in me would love to say a pork pie and a glass of milk, but the professional must admit few things start a day better than fino sherry and oysters.
Old World or New World?
I really enjoy drinking New World wines - I’ve been lucky to drink some amazing bottles; Ridge Monte Bello 2007 comes to mind. But I just can’t overlook the excitement and flair of Italian wines or the electrifying salinity of a Portuguese coastal white. So it’s Old World for me.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
When a server tops up my wine during a meal. That’s over-service for me. I like to drink at my own pace, as each bottle demands a unique tempo. If I wanted you topping up my glass, I’d have invited you to dinner.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Claus Preisinger. His wines offer a great expression of Austrian native grapes — always with very present acidity and complex fruit notes. His reds, whites and macerated wines are constantly epic, in my opinion. A really great producer to get more people into drinking Austrian wine.
As an assistant general manager, what question do you most get asked by customers?
Is the terrace busy?
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Jurançon, for me. I think the power of the whites there is really quite something, but they often feel a bit shunned by most. The wines develop so much as they breathe and relax - you can almost experience a full wine pairing with just one bottle. Domaine de Souch comes to mind as a good example.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Georges Comte 2008 Les Pèlerins (a white Burgundy). If you get a good one, they are sensational - such intense hazelnut sweetness balanced with a vibrant backbone of acidity. It blew me away. I’d had three oxidised bottles before finally getting the perfect one. Totally worth it.