Flash-grilled: Ben Allen

Ben Allen's cooking CV includes a stint at famed Austrian restaurant Steirereck
Ben Allen's cooking CV includes a stint at famed Austrian restaurant Steirereck (©The Parakeet)

The head chef of Kentish Town gastropub The Parakeet on Heinz Reitbauer, his Vitamix, and why chefs who want to move too quickly never make it.

What was your first industry job?

Apprentice at The Four Seasons on Park Lane.

If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?

I’d probably work for my dad - he runs a tailor’s - and growing up, this was always where I saw myself before I fell in love with the kitchen.

What industry figure do you most admire, and why?

Heinz Reitbauer, from top Austrian restaurant Steirereck, taught me the importance of produce and sustainability. I learnt more working there than in any other kitchen.

What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?

Low-quality knives - they go blunt easily and slow everyone down.

What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?

I had one customer ask me, before eating anything I had cooked, if I season my food. Obviously, I had to be polite in my response, but in my head I was thinking, “is this person taking the piss?”

Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence

Ingredient-led, full of flavour and always with a touch of smoke.

What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?

I had a Google review recently that said nothing other than “Horrible.” I guess they didn’t like it.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?

Patience is the most important thing. Learning the art of cooking takes time, and I’m still learning every day. People who want to move too quickly never make it. Time and perseverance are what make a great cook.

Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?My Vitamix blender - it’s the perfect tool for an otherwise impossible job.

What would you choose to eat for your last meal?

To be honest, it would be whatever my mum feels like cooking me. Her cooking is nostalgic and takes me back to family meals growing up. There’s no better cook in the world to me than my mum.

À la carte or tasting menu?

À la carte for me. Tasting menus are great for getting an idea of who a chef is, but I’m a control freak, so I like to pick and choose my dishes if I can.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?

Ynyshir — I mean, what a place. The food is perfect.

What’s your favourite fast food joint?

I don’t really eat much fast food, but if you’re going to push me, I’d probably say some sort of Asian cuisine — maybe pho or ramen.

MasterChef or Great British Menu?

Great British Menu.

What’s the most overrated food?

Burgers. I know people love them and are “perfecting” them, but really, how good can they be?

You’re restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?

Self-service restaurants. All the theatre is gone.

Who would your dream dinner party guests be?

Outside of my close family and friends, it would be members of the Arsenal first teams from across the years - Thierry Henry, Bukayo Saka and, of course, Ian Wright.

What’s your earliest food memory?

My mum’s Sunday dinner.

TikTok or Instagram?

Instagram.

What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?

A few years ago, I had appendicitis and my appendix nearly exploded, so I guess it would have to be that.

Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?

The Old Queen’s Head in Angel - a great local boozer.

What’s your tipple of choice?

A pint of Guinness.

What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?

Chips and hoisin sauce with a glass of Champagne. Don’t knock it till you try it!

What do you consider to be your signature dish?

Our flame-grilled sea bream with umami dashi.