Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
It’s hard to pinpoint exactly when. Growing up in Burgundy, wine was simply part of life. But around 17, I started to really enjoy red wine and developed my own sense of taste. Then I went to my first wine tasting - and that was it.
Have you had any wine-related disasters?
I’ve never dropped a bottle, but I’ve broken a few corks. The worst was early in my sommelier career, working at my parents’ Michelin-starred restaurant. A guest ordered a 2001 Volnay that should’ve been opened with a two-prong cork puller. I was too nervous to use it and snapped the cork in half.
Which restaurant wine lists have really impressed you?
Bout du Monde in Beaune - it was my local when I studied there and one of the places that made me fall in love with wine. 67 Pall Mall in London is unmatched for scale and diversity, with thousands of wines, many by the glass. And Per Se in New York – an extraordinary list that balances iconic names with smaller producers.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
The winemakers. They’re a blend of artist, scientist and entrepreneur.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
At a bar in Copenhagen I tried Martin and Anna Arndorfer’s Roter Veltliner Terrassen 1979. I love Austrian wines and this one completely stood out.
What tasting notes are overused?
“Dry” and “fruity.” “Dry” means no residual sugar, but people often use it to mean sharp or acidic. And “fruity” is vague – all wines have fruit aromas, so it doesn’t say much.
Your ultimate food and drink match?
Always wine and cheese. Brillat-Savarin with Crémant de Bourgogne, Comté with Vin Jaune, or Epoisse with a fruity Gamay – all perfection.
Old World or New World?
Old World. I love wines that express terroir and tradition.
Your biggest pet hate in restaurant wine service?
Glassware. The right glass transforms the experience, and it’s frustrating when that’s overlooked.
Favourite producer right now?
English sparkling wine keeps getting better. We’re lucky to have Raimes and Exton Park nearby – both outstanding.
Which wine region is underrated?
Alsace and Germany, especially for Riesling. It’s so expressive and versatile yet often misunderstood.
It’s your last meal – what’s in your glass?
As much as I try to move on from my Burgundy obsession, I’d have to choose a 2009 Romanée Conti Pinot Noir from the Côte de Nuits.