Flash-grilled: Kevin Bonello

Kevin Bonello trained at historic Malta restaurant Cosmana Navarra
Kevin Bonello's CV (©The Grand)

The executive head chef at York hotel The Grand on cutting his teeth in Malta, working with Marco and Gordon, and his signature ‘nosotto’ - a risotto without rice.

What was your first industry job?

At 16, I began working at Cosmana Navarra, a historic restaurant in my hometown of Rabat, Malta. The restaurant is named after the 16th-century Spanish noblewoman Cosmana Navarra and is located opposite the parish church she funded. She played a key role in the community’s heritage and it was an honour to work there. During my time there, I gained hands-on experience across all areas of the business - from pot washing to assisting in different sections - building a strong work ethic and adaptability from an early age.

If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?

I would pursue a career as either a pilot or a firefighter. I thrive in high-adrenaline environments and perform at my best under pressure, which is why roles that demand focus, resilience and quick decision-making strongly appeal to me.

What industry figure do you most admire, and why?

Having worked in professional kitchens all over the world, I am lucky to have learnt from and worked alongside some big industry names, including Marco Pierre White and Gordon Ramsay. However, the industry figure I admire most is Eric Frechon. His philosophy and the way he speaks about food shows his passion.

What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?

What frustrates me most is when food isn’t properly seasoned or when chefs don’t taste their dishes. Attention to detail is essential in a kitchen, and overlooking it can compromise the whole experience. I also believe laziness has no place in this environment - success comes from everyone pulling together and working as a team.

Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence.

My cooking style is heavily influenced by my journey as a chef and my Maltese heritage; with a fine dining background, precision and bold flavours are at the heart of any dish I create.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?

My number one piece of advice is to be humble. Listening and learning from those more senior than you is so important. Be a sponge and soak up their knowledge, and be sure to ask plenty of questions.

Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?

A chef’s knife, without a doubt. It’s the most versatile and essential tool in the kitchen - I rely on it every day.

What would you choose to eat for your last meal?

Sourdough with good olive oil, tomato, sea salt and cheese, or a poached white fish with lemon and olive oil.

À la carte or tasting menu?

Tasting menu - it allows me to have creative control over the journey and to tell a story with the food.

What’s your favourite fast food joint?

Five Guys - the burgers are so tasty!

What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?

A consommé. Clarification is a real art - the chemistry of the egg coagulating and drawing out the impurities to leave a crystal-clear broth is something special.

MasterChef or Great British Menu?

Great British Menu, always. Whilst the calibre on MasterChef is strong, I love the creativity and storytelling that come through on Great British Menu. It’s more ‘cheffy’.

What’s the most overrated food?

Ready-made noodle/ramen dishes - I just don’t understand the hype. They are convenient, yes, but the taste, texture and nutritional value are not good.

You’re restaurant dictator for a day — what would you ban?

Using mobiles during dinner - speak to and engage with the people you’re dining with.

Who would your dream dinner party guests be?

Brad Pitt, Mahatma Gandhi and Mother Teresa.

What’s your earliest food memory?

I come from a family that has always loved to entertain, so the kitchen was at the heart of our home. Some of my earliest food memories include my mother roasting pork with potatoes, making her famous lemon meringue tart from lemons picked in our garden, and baking pizza in our outdoor oven. Seasonal traditions were also central - at Easter we made figolli shaped like hearts or ducks, and at Christmas we baked mince pies, Christmas cake and pudding. These experiences instilled in me a deep love of cooking and the joy of sharing food with others.

TikTok or Instagram?

Instagram. I like the mix of content types and the option for slightly longer-form content compared with TikTok.

What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?

I was diagnosed with cancer, which was of course very scary and the closest to death I have felt. Thankfully, after treatment and surgery, I am now doing well.

Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?

A rave. I love a rave every couple of months. The energy and dancing allow me to release the stresses of everyday life.

What’s your tipple of choice?

Herbal gin mixed with rosemary or juniper. I like the exciting flavours and using a great mixer. I have a friend in Ibiza who makes wonderful small-batch gin with incredible flavours; it’s delicious!

What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?

It would have to be pastizzi - a classic Maltese delicacy made from a type of puff pastry (rocc) made with lard and baked, then filled with ricotta or marrowfat peas. They’re great hot, with a beer in the sunshine!

What do you consider to be your signature dish?

If I had to choose one, it would be The Grand’s celeriac ‘nosotto’: a risotto without rice. It’s a strong example of how my Maltese background and love of bold flavours and innovation come together.