The top line: Thailand-founded noodle specialist Khao So-I has made its international debut in Fitzrovia, taking over the former EL&N London site on Market Place. The brand has built a strong following in Chiang Mai - where its namesake noodle soup originated - and in Bangkok. Founder Win Srinavakool, a former sushi chef and travel agent, has developed a modern, more globally minded interpretation of the dish designed to go toe to toe with ramen and pho.
On the menu: Khao soi is the star: a rich, aromatic broth built from coconut milk, stock, curry paste and layers of spice. Guests can choose from a wide range of proteins - chicken, multiple cuts of beef, pork ribs, tofu, scallops and prawns among them. Small plates (gub glam) include moo ping (grilled pork skewers), chicken thigh with cumin and oyster sauce, and a northern Thai-style larb that’s more delicate and refined than the Isan versions more commonly seen in the UK.
The vibe: A modest noodle soup shop this is not. The look is polished and design-led, far more elevated than the humble street-food origins of the dish might suggest. They’ve also invested heavily in talent: the front-of-house is currently overseen by alumni of Fallow and A Wong, signalling intent to deliver a level of service and sophistication rarely associated with a single-dish specialist.
And another thing: London’s Thai scene is currently hotter than a wok on full blast. Som Saa has returned after its fire, Khao Bird has touched down in Soho, and Luke Farrell has unleashed his punchy Southern Thai curry-over-rice concept Plaza Khao Gaeng at Borough Yards. Khao So-I arrives at a moment when Londoners can’t seem to get enough heat.
9–10 Market Place, London W1W 8AQ