Flash-grilled: Elly Wentworth

Elly Wentworth's CV includes a stint working for the Tanner brothers
Elly Wentworth's CV includes a stint working for the Tanner brothers (©Fowlescombe Farm)

The executive chef Fowlescombe Farm & The Millbrook in Devon on Clare Smyth, Pierre Koffmann’s pomme purée and her sous chef Brandon’s dirty spoon pot.

What was your first industry job?

Working for the Tanner Brothers in Plymouth when I was 17. I started as a commis chef and spent most of my time chopping.

If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?

A florist or a photographer – I’m quite a creative and aesthetic person and I love making things look beautiful.

What industry figure do you most admire, and why?

Clare Smyth. She is a role model for women and the younger generation of chefs. Gaining three stars is a huge achievement. I’ve never met her but would really love to.

What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?

I hate it when my senior sous chef Brandon works with a dirty spoon pot.

What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?

We get some odd allergies for sure… A customer recently told me they had a caviar allergy and I had to keep a straight face.

Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence…

“Bloody tasty.”

What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?

We had a guest contact us to request a booking with a number of life-threatening allergies which, unfortunately, we were unable to accommodate, so she told me that I had ruined her Christmas.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?

Pick a chef you admire to work with and be loyal to them. Listen, keep your head down and ask as many questions as possible.

Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?

Obvious, but I’d say knives. We couldn’t do our job without them. Making sure they stay sharp and well maintained keeps us safe and makes all the food we prepare possible.

What would you choose to eat for your last meal?

Scrambled eggs on toast with Lea & Perrins.

À la carte or tasting menu?

I personally love the variety of a tasting menu but, with the way the world is going, à la carte seems to be the choice customers prefer.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal. I had the meat fruit for a starter, pineapple upside-down cake for dessert, and I can’t remember the main course – but it was banging.

What’s your favourite fast food joint?

Any greasy Chinese on my day off.

What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?

Pierre Koffmann’s pomme purée. Mashed potato as made by a legend – I wish it had been created by me.

MasterChef or Great British Menu?

I’ve done both – but I’d say GBM. You get to represent your region (and I’m very proud of being from the South West), cooking to a brief, which is an interesting challenge, judged by the best chefs in the country.

What’s the most overrated food?

A niche one, but I’ve never been into sea urchins. I do understand for some people they are a huge treat.

You’re restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?

Mobile phones at the dinner table – and I know, I’m just as guilty as everyone else.

Who would your dream dinner party guests be?

Clare Smyth (but I’d have a full-on panic about cooking for her), Daniel Clifford (same), my dad (because he’s a great laugh), Alan Carr (because I think he would really get on with my dad).

What’s your earliest food memory?

Making apple crumble with my grandad.

TikTok or Instagram?

What’s TikTok?

What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?

Probably when I was about 20 years old and I fell off a pontoon into the sea after I’d had a few drinks.

Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?

I have a nine-month-old… I go to the living room.

What’s your tipple of choice?

Pint of cider, please.

What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?

I like an unusual dessert wine. We have a fantastic red dessert wine from northern Italy on at Fowlescombe at the moment, and it’s delicious with a dessert I’m currently doing with red walnuts and figs.

What do you consider to be your signature dish?

I make a burnt honey cremeux using honey from our own bees at Fowlescombe. It’s served to complement seasonal fruits from the orchards all year round - currently pears and quince.