Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
Whilst working at Hemmingway’s Bar in Wimbledon Village, I tasted a Torrontés from Salta in Argentina and it blew me away. Up until this point I had been focusing more on cocktails and had no idea about the incredible nuance of wine. This moment, coupled with the fact that the documentary SOMM (which followed four MS candidates) had just been released, was when I knew I wanted to follow a career in wine.
Describe your wine list at Maré
In Brighton and Hove there is definitely a style of wine list that focuses on English sparkling wine — as we’re in the heart of the production area — and natural/biodynamic wines with an emphasis on smaller producers. We’ve tried to walk the line between offering classic styles, for example Margaux du Château Margaux by the glass; a cracking Champagne selection by the glass including Krug and Billecart-Salmon Rosé; as well as offering a wealth of wines between £40 and £80, alongside a few smaller producers.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
Whilst opening a Champagne bottle very early on in my career during the busiest part of a Saturday night service, I neglected to keep my thumb on the cork, which subsequently burst out of the bottle straight into the rack of glasses above the ice well, shattering several over guests and the surrounding area. A lesson learned.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists (excluding your own!)
Camille in Borough Market — the team has put together a perfect blend of wonderful obscurities and benchmark producers. Row on 5 - Roxy’s (Dupuy) list is remarkable in size and style. House of Tides in Newcastle is full of hidden gems at outrageously good value.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Out of so many I look up to, two come to mind. Jonathan Kleeman — I worked with him at Restaurant Story and to this day he’s the best mentor I’ve ever had: funny, witty, patient and a cracking taster. In my new role I also have the pleasure of working with Maria Boumpa (the head sommelier at Da Terra): recently UK Sommelier of the Year, curator of excellent lists, a powerhouse of knowledge and passion and a fantastic colleague.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
We currently have a UK-exclusive by-the-glass offering of a stunning Muscadet from Domaine Bretaudeau. Vines with an average age of 35 years produce a smoky, saline-edged wine that punches well above its weight.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
Masculine, feminine and food friendly.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
For me it has to be the Symington and Mendes ‘Contacto’ Alvarinho. It’s a lively, vibrant and versatile wine offered by the glass at £7 and works with everything on the menu — but particularly with our crab crumpet and lobster tartlet.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
I’m particularly fond of vintage Blanc de Blancs English sparkling wine with fish and chips — especially if you can enjoy it at the beach.
Old World or New World?
I love the freedom that New World wine countries have to experiment with; however, I’d pick Old World every day of the week.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
I’m fortunate enough not to have experienced too many, but I can’t stand seeing great sparkling wines served way too cold and out of flutes. We’re serving all of our sparkling wines out of wine glasses so guests can fully appreciate them.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
This changes so often due to the volume of wines I get to taste. Right now I’m loving Sugrue South Downs. Dermot and Ana produce fantastic sparkling wines and their ‘Bonkers’ solera-aged Chardonnay is a must-try.
As a general manager/sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
One thing I’m noticing more and more at the moment is that guests are much more interested in the provenance of both their food and wine. We’re seeing a surge in people asking about how and where things are being sourced, and where they can seek out a balance between value and quality.
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
I’m not sure about underrated, but I’ve noticed guests are always surprised when I recommend a Portuguese red or white. There’s a wealth of value and quality to be found up and down the country.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Recently my partner and I went away and I introduced her to Pieropan’s La Rocca through a magnum of the 2012. She adored it, and La Rocca has always been a favourite of mine; now it’s a special wine for both of us.