Former Sosharu chef returns with “boundary-pushing” Fitzrovia restaurant

Aces Foodcraft is influenced by the precision of Japanese cooking techniques but is not tied to a particular cuisine
Aces Foodcraft is influenced by the precision of Japanese cooking techniques but is not tied to a particular cuisine (©Aces Foodcraft)

Former Sosharu chef Alex Craciun has returned to the London dining scene after a seven-year hiatus, launching a “boundary-pushing” produce-led fine dining restaurant in Fitzrovia.

Opened quietly earlier this month, Aces Foodcraft draws on the precision of Japanese cooking techniques honed during the chef’s time in Michelin-starred kitchens in Tokyo.

The menu, however, is billed as being entirely produce-led and deliberately avoids being tied to any single cuisine.

Located on Pearson Square, the restaurant will offer a tight menu of three to four dishes at lunchtime, intended as a refined take on a neighbourhood tapas bar.

In the evening, Aces Foodcraft will switch to an “ever-evolving” tasting menu, described as an “immersive demonstration of what is possible from Craciun’s innovative use of produce”.

Dishes will include a prawn dumpling balanced on a test tube filled with French green mussel sauce, and chicken liver parfait whipped into a light mousse with parmesan, garnished with beetroot and coconut.

Craciun is running the restaurant alongside his wife, Aleksandra Jazevica, who is also a director at Primeur, a specialist supplier to many of London’s top chefs and restaurants.

Named after the couple’s son, the restaurant has a homely feel, with soft, warm lighting, natural wood textures and antiques.

A large glass cabinet, suspended above the kitchen and reached by a wooden ladder, showcases the produce being used.

The restaurant will also feature a nine-seat chef’s table.

The European-leaning wine programme has been created by Aces Foodcraft’s general manager and sommelier Alexi Ghenciu, in collaboration with wine expert Laure Parte (previously Pollen Street Social and Maze by Gordon Ramsay).

It will focus on wines “with personality that honour the depth and thought of the cuisine”.

The drinks offering will also include premium sake, specialist beers and a concise list of signature cocktails, including the Aces Martini, garnished with a Japanese plum.

Craciun is best known for launching Sosharu near Farringdon train station for Jason Atherton in 2016.

The restaurant was well reviewed but closed around two years after opening, with Atherton saying at the time that it “struggled” due to its location, describing Farringdon as “an incredibly tricky spot”.

Craciun has cooked in some of the world’s most revered kitchens, including Tokyo three-Michelin-star and World’s 50 Best regular Ryugin.