Mark Birchall has had quite a year. In February, his Lancashire restaurant with rooms was awarded three Michelin stars and just a few months later, Moor Hall was named the second-best restaurant in the UK at Restaurant’s National Restaurant Awards.
In just nine years, Birchall has created a truly world-beating place to eat. And all while spinning many more plates than most thrice-starred chefs opt to do. There’s a lot more going on at Moor Hall than at most comparable restaurants, not least a garden that supplies much of the produce and, when the weather allows, becomes part of the dining experience. There’s also an on-site micro-dairy, cheese room, charcuterie room and a notably comprehensive and creative drinks programme.
We caught up with Birchall to talk about Christmas at Moor Hall and at home, and what lies ahead in 2026.
You’ve had quite a year…
It’s been incredible. This time last year the Michelin Guide was all that was on my mind. I’m not saying I was expecting something to happen, but you’re always hopeful. It was definitely the aim, although I don’t think I ever said that in print because getting three stars is such an outrageous ambition. Just to dream that you might reach those heights and get that world-class certification. I got very worked up and stressed about it, and then it finally happened. The feeling was like nothing else. It’s also made for one of the best years we’ve had here. We’ve been so consistently busy that Christmas doesn’t really feel like a rush – being full is normal now, which is brilliant.
There’s no higher you can go now. How does that feel?
It’s odd. Sometimes you question whether you’re good enough. When you come up with a dish you’re constantly thinking: ‘Is this a three-star plate?’ There’s sometimes a bit of fear and doubt there. But you don’t get it without a reason, and Michelin doesn’t give stars out to take them away. That said, you can’t be complacent. We’re still a very young restaurant – less than 10 years old – so there is fuel in the tank. We’re not trying to reinvent the wheel, but there’s still a lot more to come from us.
Tell us about your new private dining room
We’ve worked with The Macallan to create the Atelier Hearth. It’s not a whisky room as such, but there are some beautiful whiskies in the cabinet, and we can offer a whisky pairing or a tasting at the end of the meal. It has a calmer, more intimate feel than the main restaurant, with a beautiful oak and walnut table. The menu broadly mirrors the main restaurant but is usually a little shorter, with an emphasis on centrepiece dishes. We might do a whole saddle of venison cooked on the bone, or a whole monkfish tail, which we bring in for guests to see before plating it in the kitchen.
Do you do anything special at Moor Hall for Christmas?
Generally, people don’t come to a restaurant at this level wanting a festive menu, which suits me to be honest. We have a Christmas tree and a few decorations, but that’s about it. Moor Hall feels festive in its own right – open fires, lots of wood panelling. It’s a cosy place.
What are your opening hours over Christmas?
The main restaurant is closed on the 24th, 25th and 26th. But The Barn (the more informal, albeit Michelin-starred restaurant on the property) is open on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. The whole property then closes for three weeks from 1 January. It means the whole team gets a proper break, which isn’t always a given in hospitality.
When you come up with a dish you’re constantly thinking: ‘Is this a three-star plate?’ There’s sometimes a bit of fear and doubt there
Who cooks Christmas dinner at your house?
Me. I feel a bit guilty sitting there while everyone else does the work, so I cook every other year. I’m doing turkey and ham with all the traditional accompaniments, then cheese, and one of our Moor Hall Christmas puddings. Admittedly, it’s more challenging without six Rational ovens, a brigade of 20 cooks and someone to peel your potatoes for you, but I’m sure my mother-in-law will help out.
What will you and your family do during the three weeks off?
The first week we’re hiring a cottage with close friends and letting all the kids run wild together. There’ll be plenty of good food and drink, I’m sure. After that, we’ll just relax at home. We can’t really go away for long now as my eldest is at secondary school.
How are things shaping up for next year, bookings-wise?
The diary is open until March and bookings are strong. That said, the Budget hasn’t helped. People aren’t feeling confident about the economy and that does have an impact at our level. Instead of coming twice a year, they might come once. But it is what it is. You make the best of it and keep going.
What have you got planned for 2026?
Getting the cheese production properly up and running is a big priority. We opened the garden rooms and lodges last year, and we’ll soon look at updating the bedrooms in the main house, although that may slip into 2027. I’d also like to do a book, perhaps to coincide with 10 years of Moor Hall – something that tells the story of the restaurant and what went into creating it. I’ve got a lot of judging next year too. I’m an honorary judge on the Master of Culinary Arts, which only takes place every four years, and I’m also judging the Roux Scholarship. There’s going to be plenty going on.
Any plans for more restaurants?
It’s not something I’d rule out. A few people have come knocking. But my focus is very much on what we’re doing here, and so far the timing hasn’t felt right. Anything I put my name to has to be executed perfectly.