Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
In the third year of my college course, we spent one evening a week cooking typical dishes from different French regions, with wines provided by our lecturer. We’d make choucroute and Quiche Lorraine with Alsacienne Riesling, cassoulet with big, hearty Madirans, or goat’s cheese salad with Sancerre and Anjou blanc. It blew my mind that what grows together goes together, and how wine could amplify the pleasure of food.
Describe your wine list at 64 Goodge Street
We have a predominantly Old World list, with an emphasis on Burgundies – the older and more obscure, the better. There’s a lot of familiar faces at all levels, but we aim to offer the best value while keeping it interesting. We also have access to some unique bottles, offered in the Cellar List on the back pages.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
A couple come to mind from my first days as a sommelier at the Ritz. Trying to blag my Burgundy knowledge by calling Philippe Pacalet’s wines “absolutely classic examples of the region” to a group of sommeliers who knew I was wrong. Being asked the difference between two vintages of Mouton Rothschild on New Year’s Eve and having no idea, losing the sale. And the classic of topping up everyone’s glass at a 10-top from a corked bottle, having to clear, reopen, and repour mid-gala dinner.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Drapers Arms for the generosity, how quickly it changes, and the fact it’s a ten-minute walk from my flat. Greyhound in Beaconsfield for variety and price – Margriet’s knowledge is outstanding, and the quality they offer at every level is incomparable. Kaia Kaipe in San Sebastian for old, rare wines at well below market value (perfect with Txuleta steak and grilled fish).
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Without question, Marcos Spyrou – GM at Quality Wines. Often mistaken for my older brother because the resemblance is uncanny. I owe my lucky break at Quality Chop House to his recommendation, but he’s also one of the most intelligent, thoughtful, knowledgeable, and charismatic people I’ve met. He’s as happy recommending first growths as natural wines – even Bacardi Breezers and Skittles vodka make appearances. More than that, he’s been a huge confidant and constant source of advice and inspiration.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
A blend of Xinomavro and Negoska from Goumenissa in Northern Greece, near Macedonia. The winery is Chatzivaritis. It has big notes of sour raspberries that develop into tomato and olive, with high tannin and acidity. Super delicious and a great alternative to many of the Burgundies we sell.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
“Crunchy,” “zippy,” and “natty.”
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
A 2017 Bourgeuil for about £55 – complex, velvety, with a slight wildness. It pairs with most of our winter menu.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Either vintage Champagne with KFC, or Cornas with grouse.
Old World or New World?
Old World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
The lack of upselling. If offered something, I find it hard to resist. Not suggesting another bottle before mains, a second martini, or a sweet wine or digestif later is a missed opportunity. My favourite upsell was a Capreolus Raspberry eau de vie between mains and desserts at L’Enclume – a little middle course suggested by the sommelier.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Gangloff – a rockstar making unbelievable wines in Condrieu. His Côte-Rôties are rare, but the Condrieus are unique. I visited a few years ago; the hospitality was amazing, playing old records and opening old bottles. The wines left a lasting impression, and whenever I see them on a list, I snap them up.
As a general manager, what question do you most get asked by customers?
Usually, “what’s the difference between x and y?” Guests are knowledgeable, but often want to understand wines relative to others, not just as standalone bottles. It’s not enough to say both Domaine de Pelican and Domaine de Carlines are rich Jura wines with high acidity and bruised apple – you need to explain how they differ. This is the tricky part when training junior staff on more interesting bottles.
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Croatia. I had a great Croatian wine at Gymkhana recently – it opened my eyes, and I’ll be keeping an eye out for more.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Gangloff Condrieu. There are many contenders, mostly from the Northern Rhône, but Gangloff holds a special place in my heart. I last had it at the three-star Les Prés d’Eugénie in Gascony the day I got engaged – I’d be more than happy for that to be on the table for my final meal.