The top line: WSH Restaurants has made its London debut with an impressively high-spec opening in the heart of Fitzrovia. As the name suggests, 74 Charlotte Street marks Ben Murphy’s return to the capital, following his departure from Launceston Place in 2024, where he built a strong reputation for refined, classical cooking. Murphy trained under Pierre Koffmann at The Berkeley and went on to work in a number of multi-starred kitchens, including The Greenhouse in London and Michel Guérard’s Les Prés d’Eugénie in Gascony. The restaurant is backed by WSH Restaurants, which is owned by Alastair Storey OBE - the influential Scottish hospitality executive behind BaxterStorey, Benugo and Searcys, among others. 74 Charlotte Street sits alongside The Woodspeen, The Clockspire, The Boxford and The Braywood. The Fitzrovia opening represents a strategic shift for the group from destination-led, countryside restaurants to large-scale, central London operation aimed squarely at a high-footfall, urban dining market. It is also the first WSH Restaurants venue to carry the chef’s name.
The menu: At more than twice the size of Murphy’s last restaurant, 74 Charlotte Street has required a rethink of how his food is delivered. The cooking remains firmly high-end, but the format has been loosened to suit a bigger room and a broader audience. Alongside an à la carte and tasting menu, there is a keenly priced lunch and early evening set, designed to appeal to Fitzrovia’s weekday trade. While Murphy food has been simplified, it is understood that a Michelin star is still very much part of the long-term plan. Dishes include tuna ceviche with citrus, apple and radish; roasted squab pigeon with celeriac, wild rice and timur pepper; and beef fillet with short rib, bone marrow and Roscoff onion. While much of the menu is new, there are nods to Murphy’s Launceston Place years, including his polished take on eggs and soldiers.
The vibe: Formerly home to Monica Galetti’s Mere - also backed by Storey - the restaurant is now almost unrecognisable following a complete redesign by Chris Bagot Architects. The layout has been opened up, with the entrance level now largely devoted to dining rather than reception. Downstairs, the main dining room has been carefully designed to avoid the feel of a basement, using large windows, mirrors and abundant planting to create a light, airy space. The overall look is clean, contemporary and understated.
And another thing: Despite the scale of the operation, Murphy is currently running the kitchen with just five chefs - all alumni of Launceston Place.
74 Charlotte Street, London W1T 4QH