Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
Despite my grandfather always making wine for the family, my real connection with it came when I was 15, during my first international experience working at the Palace Hotel Gstaad in Switzerland. I had the chance to taste Bianco Breg by Josko Gravner and was immediately struck by the emotions that wine could generate.
Describe your wine list at Caractère
The wine list is built around two main pillars: the heritage of the restaurant’s owners, one French and one Italian. That influence runs throughout the selection, alongside my own devotion to sustainability. The list is rooted in organic and biodynamic principles, with one foot firmly in the past and the other looking towards the future.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
My biggest disaster probably dates back to when I was 16 and managed to crash an entire service trolley loaded with champagne flutes. I was rushing and completely misjudged the surface in front of me. I still think about it sometimes — now with a shy smile — because realistically it wasn’t the end of the world, even if it certainly felt like it at the time.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Corrigan’s is a standout for me. Luigi Conca does a brilliant job of blending top-class producers from around the world with lesser-known, niche wines that really deserve to be discovered. Tappo, the Notting Hill wine bar, is another favourite. Massimo and his team have created an Italian-focused masterpiece that feels like a journey back in time, with some incredible vintages along the way. And then there’s Tosi Gorgonzola Bar, where Walter and the team guide guests through classy Champagnes and Italian classics with real confidence and charm.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Jancis Robinson is, like she is for many others, a huge inspiration. Alongside her, Pascaline Lepeltier has had a big influence on me. My dream is to become an influential voice in the wine business, and I see them as two of the best writers in our field.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
A wine called L’Ambrato, from Sicily. It really takes you back to a time when wine tasted “real” — untainted by human correction. It’s made from old-vine Catarratto and has a wonderful sense of authenticity.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
“Mineral”, “flinty” and “vibrant” are all used far too often.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
A wine made from Sauvignon Kretos, a PIWI variety that I’m a big advocate of. The wine is called M’Ama, from Albafiorita in Friuli Venezia Giulia. It’s a real crowd-pleaser: versatile, refreshing and easy to enjoy.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Spaghetti alla Carbonara with a Blanc de Blancs Champagne.
Old World or New World?
Old World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
When the wine list hasn’t been updated and I end up ordering something that’s no longer available, or when the vintage listed on the menu doesn’t match what’s actually in stock.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Gianluca Colombo in Piedmont. I consider him an incredibly talented winemaker and wine consultant, and I think his wines reflect his philosophy better than most.
As a sommelier, what question do you most often get asked by customers?
The usual ice-breaker is: “What’s your view on English sparkling wine?”
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Trentino-Alto Adige is still hugely underrated.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What are you having?
Spaghetti alla Carbonara, paired with a bottle of Krug Clos du Mesnil 1986 — a real dream.