Flash-grilled: Nicolás Einersen

Nicolás Einersen's CV includes Michelin-starred Notting Hill restaurant Dorian
Nicolás Einersen's CV includes Michelin-starred Notting Hill restaurant Dorian (©Mareida)

The head chef of Chilean restaurant Mareida on pairing white wine with pineapple ice cream, Icelandic chef Gísli Matt and Swedish meatballs.

What was your first industry job?

Commis chef at the Radisson Hotel in my hometown of Concepción in south-central Chile. It was absolutely incredible, with just the right amount of bullying. Instant love.

If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?

I would probably have continued my engineering studies and worked in something related to the mining industry back home.

What industry figure do you most admire, and why?

Gísli Matt from Iceland. He’s full of power, positivity and happiness – it’s very contagious.

What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?

Staff lateness or plates not being polished properly.

What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?

I once got asked if I could plate a dish entirely at the table. They were very lucky I was in a good mood and thought it would be a good idea. It was actually really fun, and the guests were extremely happy.

Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence

I make beautiful ingredients shine.

What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?

It’s all about having the right attitude and working hard. I’ve worked for very difficult and demanding chefs, and the answer has always been those two things.

Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?

I’m obsessed with my Thermapen – something I’ve carried with me since my time at Dorian, where everyone has their own colour. It’s very accurate, instant-read, and allows you to be more consistent when cooking any ingredient.

What would you choose to eat for your last meal?

Swedish meatballs. Swedish cuisine has a special place in my heart and this dish, when done well, is absolute perfection.

À la carte or tasting menu?

À la carte all day, every day.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?

Dinner with a friend in 2022 at Barr in Copenhagen. I can still taste everything in my mind and, thankfully, they weren’t very busy, so I had the chance to speak to the chef and learn about the thinking behind each ingredient.

What’s your favourite fast-food joint?

There’s a bao place in Balham called Little Bao Boy. It’s super good, cheap and consistent.

What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?

Tom Brown’s crab kiev. I think it’s absolutely genius – it looks amazing and tastes incredible.

MasterChef or Great British Menu?

MasterChef: The Professionals.

What’s the most overrated food?

Foie gras. It’s a very cruel practice and not worth it.

You’re restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?

See-through plates. They’re horrendous.

Who would your dream dinner party guests be?

Marcelo “Chino” Ríos for the drama and comedy, Anthony Bourdain for basically the same reason, and Nacho, Giuliano and Leo – my best friends and flatmates. It would probably be the most fun and crazy meal of my life.

What’s your earliest food memory?

Learning how to make scrambled eggs at my grandma’s and asking to make them again and again.

TikTok or Instagram?

Instagram all the way.

What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?

Probably the time I went rafting during a heavy storm in the Ecuadorian jungle – even the guides were scared we might not make it.

Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?

It doesn’t happen very often, to be honest, but I like dancing (like every Latino, I guess). Techno, house or reggaeton do the trick.

What’s your tipple of choice?

Piscolas (only Chilean pisco, sorry Peru) or a good G&T.

What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?

White wine with pineapple ice cream. It’s a Chilean classic.

What do you consider to be your signature dish?

It’s hard to say because I’m constantly trying to change and challenge myself to do new things. But maybe the lobster and Gruyère empanada we have on the menu at the moment.