Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I was working in a music venue and found learning about all the different drinks fascinating. Wine was an instant hook – there’s so much to learn and, of course, so much to taste.
Describe your wine lists at MOI and ALTA
We’re interested in challenging preconceptions about where great wine can come from, who can make it, how it can be made and even how it can be served. Both lists sit at around 100 references and are constantly evolving, but above all they’re designed to support the brilliant work coming out of the kitchen. We also make a point of championing small-scale producers working sustainably, organically and biodynamically.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
Knocking over a crate full of Zalto glasses. It really broke the soul – and the wine budget.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Authentique is a go-to for hard-to-find bottles at surprisingly reasonable prices. Winemakers Club pairs one of the best spaces in London with a regularly changing selection that delivers at every price point. And Restaurant 101 Taillevent offers a comprehensive list and the chance to try an extraordinary range of wines by the glass.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
Jamie Goode. He’s always at tastings, no matter the subject, which shows a real openness to trying new things. His scientific background also brings clarity to specific questions and a broader perspective that’s often missing in wine.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
Château Rousset-Peyraguey. A true rebel neighbour of Château d’Yquem, the estate sometimes produces wines in an Amontillado style, experiments with solera systems and chestnut barrels, and often ages wines for extended periods in concrete.
What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?
Ruiz Jiménez Valcaliente Blanco 2018 – an incredible aged white Rioja in that distinctive traditional style, not unlike the wines of López de Heredia. And all for just over £60.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
Craven Pinot Gris with tuna. It’s a lovely take on Ramato – bridging the gap between rosé and orange wine – with enough structure to handle richness, while still standing up to bitterness.
Old World or New World?
It’s a different question these days. The New World is producing increasingly Old World-styled wines, while warmer vintages have shifted the Old World too. The gap feels smaller than ever. That said, Old World would probably still edge it for me.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Decanting bottles without asking.
Who is your favourite producer right now – and why?
Brovia (a top Barolo maker). The quality is consistently high and, for now at least, the prices remain relatively reasonable.
As a sommelier, what question do you most get asked by customers?
“Is this dry?”
Which wine producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
Jerez. There’s so much energy coming from producers there right now, from unfortified wines to experiments with heritage grape varieties beyond Palomino. And mature bottles still offer remarkable value compared with much of the wider wine world.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
Marcel Juge Cornas. Now painfully rare from the late, great pioneer of Cornas, but I’ve always loved the extraordinary complexity that can develop with aged examples.