Daniel Rogan decided he wanted to be a chef at just 13, watching his father Simon run service during the early days of L’Enclume. Twenty-five years on, he now has a restaurant of his own in his home city of Southampton.
By his own admission, it’s not an easy place in which to run a top-flight restaurant. Weekends are busy, but the city’s lack of a high-end dining culture makes it harder to fill tables during the week. The project has, however, been given a significant boost. AO by Daniel Rogan is now part of his father’s Umbel Restaurant Group, joining a portfolio that includes several Lake District restaurants - among them Simon’s three-Michelin-star flagship L’Enclume - as well as sites in Manchester, London and overseas.
We caught up with Daniel and Simon to discuss what the move means for AO, and what they’ll be serving at their upcoming collaboration at the end of the month, which will see the pair cook side by side for the first time.
This is the first time you’ve been on the same bill, as it were
Simon Rogan: Daniel did help me out at the Bocuse d’Or fundraising event a few years ago, but this is the first time we’ve officially cooked together as father and son. The dinners will celebrate produce from The Lakes and the South Coast - two very different places, but with a shared ethos. Both have great larders and a focus on quality. It’s also about giving AO a bit of a leg up and letting people know he’s here:
What will you be cooking?
Daniel Rogan: As I’m hosting, I got to pick first. My dishes will celebrate seasonal local produce. This event will get a lot of attention, so it’s important to showcase great local suppliers. I’m most excited about a snack version of our slow-cooked lamb shoulder with lovage, lamb fat emulsion and espuma potato with Winchester Cheddar. And, of course, cooking with my dad.
SR: I’m filling in the gaps with dishes that should complement Daniel’s. I’ll be doing some personal favourites - an English mushroom dish cooked in miso, and duck with fermented cabbage and onions. We’ll also use produce from Our Farm in The Lakes. They’re not copies of L’Enclume dishes, but they reflect our style.
It’s been a long time since you’ve cooked on the South Coast…
SR: I haven’t cooked in Southampton since the late 1980s, when I was working with Jean-Christophe Novelli at Geddes Restaurant. It might never happen again - this is definitely a one-off. I’m going to have fun. I’m even staying in my old room at my parents’ house for a few nights.
DR: When we released tickets, it sold out in two hours - which is a bit different for us. Weekends are busy, but weekdays can still be tough.
Southampton isn’t known for its restaurants…
DR: There aren’t many restaurants aiming for our level, although that’s not to say Southhampton doesn’t have any good palces to eat. Most of our guests aren’t locals - we attract cruise passengers and visitors. There are advantages to being one of the only fine dining restaurants in the city, but it’s not the easiest market. Locals aren’t always used to this style of dining - it’s up to us to change that.
SR: It is possible to have a busy restaurant here. When I worked here years ago, we were full for lunch and dinner. There aren’t many high-end restaurants in Hampshire, especially in the Michelin Guide. That’s surprising given the quality of produce and the demographic.
Talking of Michelin, nearly all the restaurants in the Umbel group have at least one star. Is that the plan for AO?
DR: Stars have been part of my upbringing, so it’s definitely a goal. But it’s important to recognise the current climate and make sure the business is financially sustainable.
SR: Whatever restaurant we have, we strive to do the best we can and provide the best food and guest experience possible. If you do that, you put yourself in a strong position to achieve accolades.
What does AO becoming part of Umbel mean in practice?
SR: It’s primarily about collaboration. Daniel will use produce from Our Farm. The restaurant manager has worked with Valentin, our sommelier at L’Enclume, on the wine list and pairings. We also support with admin - reservations, HR and marketing. It creates opportunities for teams to move within the business. But it remains Daniel’s restaurant. It’s similar to what we do with Tom Barnes at Skof (in Manchester) - we advise and support, but it’s his.
SR: Who’d be a restaurant owner in this country at the moment? It’s tough. If I can help him avoid some of the mistakes I’ve made over 25 years, he’ll do very well.
DR: Stability was a big factor for me. I’m still relatively new to running a business, and it can be stressful, especially in the current climate. I’m a chef first - my passion is cooking - and the business side can get in the way. Being part of Umbel means I get advice from people with years of experience at the highest level. The team is excited too. We’re also putting in an open kitchen, which was part of our previous site, and refreshing the interior.
There are similarities in your cooking styles. What are the differences?
DR: I probably use ingredients my dad wouldn’t. His cooking is led by what’s grown on the farm. Being in a city, I’m more open to using global ingredients. I like bold flavours and don’t have strict rules on sourcing.
Tell us about your background, Daniel
DR: I knew I wanted to be a chef at 13. I remember spending half terms in Cumbria during the early days of L’Enclume. Dad would be working and I’d stand by the back door watching service - and finishing leftover sauce with bread. I loved the buzz. I’ve worked across most of Umbel’s kitchens, as well as in the New Forest, including with Gerald Basset at Terravina, and did stages at Marcus and Restaurant Gordon Ramsay. We launched AO as a pop-up on a farm in the New Forest, then secured a permanent site in Southampton city centre at the end of last year. We’ve got a long lease, so we’re here for the long term.