Uncorked: Francesco Rignanese

Francesco Rignanese's CV also includes Marylebone restaurant Orrery
Francesco Rignanese's CV also includes Marylebone restaurant Orrery (©Elystan Street)

The assistant head sommelier at Chelsea restaurant Elystan Street on Chile, Château Haut-Brion 1989 and keeping it classic with truffle and Barolo.

Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine

It was around six years ago when the head sommelier at my previous workplace introduced a new Chenin Blanc by the glass during a pre-service staff briefing. I remember how much I enjoyed it, and from that moment I became increasingly interested – asking questions and gradually starting to learn about wine as a profession.

Describe your wine list at Elystan Street

The wine list at Elystan Street is a strong mix of Old and New World wines, with some excellent value options and a good balance between established producers and interesting newer wineries. We are also expanding our Eastern European selection, with Slovenian and Polish wines that are great discoveries and enjoyable to introduce to guests looking to try something different.

Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?

A couple of years ago we had a Georgian red on the wine pairing, and during New Year’s Eve service we discovered that 12 of the 18 bottles were corked. I had to completely change the wine for the second seating. Fortunately, guests didn’t notice as we adapted the menu in time.

Name your top three restaurant wine lists

I’ve been exploring the lists at Trivet and Noble Rot, which stand out for their variety and niche selections. I’m also impressed by the list at Orrery.

Who do you most respect in the wine world?

My current and previous head sommeliers, all of whom have great knowledge and varied experience in hospitality. A special mention goes to Julio David Tauste Sierra at Orrery, who helped me prepare for my WSET Level 3 exam.

What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?

A Polish dry Riesling brought in by one of our suppliers was a great surprise. From our own list, a recent standout was the 1988 Château Léoville-Las Cases ‘Grand Vin de Léoville’ – fully mature but still lively, with leather, tobacco and savoury notes.

What are the three most overused tasting notes?

Citrussy, buttery and spicy.

What’s the best value wine on your list at the moment?

In terms of quality and price, I would highlight the 2019 Château La Croix, the second wine of Château La Croix in Saint-Estèphe. At £95 on the list, it has some age but is ready to drink now and shows classic Bordeaux character.

What is your ultimate food and drink match?

I keep it classic with truffle and Barolo – it’s a perfect pairing.

Old World or New World?

Old World, for the history and the countries that set the standard for winemaking as we know it today.

What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?

When a glass of wine is brought already filled, without showing the bottle or offering a taste beforehand.

Who is your favourite producer right now, and why?

Roagna in Piedmont. Their single-vineyard Barolo and Barbaresco are exceptional – on the pricier side, but absolutely worth it for the quality.

As a sommelier, what question do you get asked most by customers?

Guests often ask how I became interested in wine, what courses I’ve taken, and how long it takes to complete them.

Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?

Chile is a personal favourite. It produces fresh white wines as well as excellent reds, and the quality-to-price ratio is often very strong.

It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it, and why?

Château Haut-Brion 1989 – one of the greatest vintages of my favourite wine, and one I’ve yet to try.