Tell us about the moment you first became interested in wine
I was drawn into the wine world by the need to fill a gap in my knowledge. I’d always worked on the drinks side of hospitality, first as a bartender and then as a waiter with a passion for wine. But that wasn’t enough – I wanted to know more.
Describe your wine list at IGNI
The wine list is driven by flavours and wine-related stories. First and foremost, a wine must be delicious. We also try to choose bottles with interesting stories attached, whether about a vineyard, a particular parcel or the producer, so that we have something entertaining to share with the guest. As sommeliers, we respect tradition and the classic wine regions, but we also encourage guests to be brave and explore what lesser-known regions have to offer.
Over the course of your career, have you had any wine-related disasters?
Early in my career, I used a Coravin on a bottle of Madeira. It didn’t have a regular cork, but more of a stopper, and the result was a shower of 15-year-old Malmsey all over the sommelier station and my uniform during an extremely busy service at a two-Michelin-starred restaurant. It’s a moment I’ll remember for the rest of my life.
Name your top three restaurant wine lists
Noble Rot, The 10 Cases and Les 110 de Taillevent, all in London. They offer a fantastic range of wine regions and incredibly good-value wines by the glass.
Who do you most respect in the wine world?
It would have to be my two main mentors. Gonzalo R Diaz taught me how to be organised and effective, and to have a critical eye towards everything I do during service and in my wider sommelier responsibilities. Jan Konetzki taught me about the theatrical side of service: how to bring excitement to the table and pass it on to the guest. These two very different people gave me confidence and shaped the sommelier I am today.
What’s the most interesting wine you’ve come across recently?
I recently drank a very interesting Greek wine, Terra Thiva’s Mouhtaro. It was served blind with lamb skewers and had wonderfully warm, savoury aromas alongside elegant red-fruit notes. The palate was smooth and exciting, with an almost Cabernet Franc-like character. It was really memorable and offered excellent value for money.
What are the three most overused tasting notes?
There are so many clichés. I’ve seen people start describing a wine before even smelling it, based purely on how it looks in the glass. Vague terms such as ‘citrus’ for whites and ‘cherry’ or ‘spicy’ for reds tell you very little if you really want to understand the wine in front of you. During training, I push people to be more specific: what type of citrus, spice or cherry?
What’s the best-value wine on your list at the moment, and why?
The 2018 Errazuriz Las Pizarras Chardonnay from Aconcagua in Chile. It offers the chance to discover something new at a relatively accessible price and is one of the most delicious Chardonnays I’ve drunk recently, with a quality comparable to top-class Puligny-Montrachet. At the prestige end of the list, the rarity of Château Latour 2000, released ex-château in 2023, also makes it exceptional value, while Louis Roederer Cristal Vinothèque 2002 represents very good value based on our mark-up.
What is your ultimate food and drink match?
I recently had an emotional experience with Blandy’s Sercial 1989 paired with grilled turbot and a caramel-like sauce made from the fish bones. The wine’s oxidative, sweet finish and layers of salinity and umami complemented the flavour profile of the dish beautifully.
Old World or New World?
Old World.
What is your pet hate when it comes to wine service in other restaurants?
Poor glassware. It’s so frustrating when you order a bottle of wine and it is served in a cheap, undignified glass.
Who is your favourite producer right now?
Domaine Noël Ramonet et Fils. It’s the new kid on the block, located in one of Burgundy’s most prestigious and exclusive areas. Despite only starting in 2023 and having just 2.2 hectares, it has already achieved a level of quality and prestige that is usually very difficult to attain. The wines display precision and pristine craftsmanship, while prices remain fair and relatively accessible, even for the grands crus.
Which wine-producing region or country is underrated at the moment?
It’s sad to say, but I believe English wines are still often overlooked outside the sparkling category. They are sometimes regarded as pale imitations of better-known French wines, with prices that don’t reflect what you get in return. But quality has improved significantly over the past three or four years and prices have become more competitive. Lately, I’ve been blown away by some outstanding Pinot Noir and very elegant Chardonnay – so much so that I’m actively using them in my drinks pairings.
It’s your last meal and you can have a bottle of any wine in the world. What is it and why?
It would have to be the wine that made me fall in love with this profession. I tried Domaine de Trévallon 2004 more than 15 years ago and, for the first time, it made time stand still. Just thinking about it gives me goosebumps. It isn’t the most expensive or supposedly the best bottle in the world, but it holds profound meaning for me. It brings back the beautiful memory of opening my first bottle of wine during a trial shift as a young commis sommelier. I still treasure the cork at home.