Latest opening: Macellaio RC Store Street

By Joe Lutrario

- Last updated on GMT

Macellaio RC Store Street

Related tags Italian cuisine Casual dining Steak Macellaio RC

Roberto Costa's fifth London site specialises in magnums and pizza, but Macellaio's high quality Fassone beef remains the star of the show.

What:​ The latest restaurant from Italian beef specialist Macellaio RC. The now six-strong brand has taken on a former Byron on Store Street, which is a few minutes’ walk away from restaurant hotspot Charlotte Street (nearby operators include Busaba Eathai and Bao).

Who:​ Roberto Costa, the grandson of a famous Genoese butcher. He opened the first Macellaio way back in 2002 in his native Liguria and opened a further 15 sites in Italy before bringing the concept to London in 2012 (he became disassociated with the original restaurants in Italy but recently opened a Macellaio in Milan).

The vibe:​ Macellaio's fifth London restaurant is somewhat awkwardly arranged with two seating areas and a tiny semi-open kitchen. Despite the constraints of the L-shaped space, Costa has managed to squeeze in a large meat aging fridge and a butcher’s counter (theatre is a big part of the Macellaio experience; the butchers at its Union Street restaurant prepare meat on a stage). Waiting staff are dressed in boiler suits, a nod to the building's former use at The Duke of Bedford’s filling station. The slightly chaotic and idiosyncratic nature of the experience makes it feel authentically Italian.

The food:​ Like the other sites, the star of the show is Macellaio’s Fassona beef, which is butchered and dry-aged on-site. Sourced from Piedmont, the breed is huge and comically muscly, the result of a mutation that provides a higher lean-to-fat ratio, as well as less marbling and less connective tissue. The meat is available raw is tartares and carpaccios and in large steaks to share including rib-eye on the bone and bistecca Fiorentina (T-bone).

To drink:​ Costa imports his wine from Italy directly, allowing him to offer hard-to-find wines at relatively accessible prices. Store Street offers a more condensed wine list than the rest of the group that’s focused on magnums, although many are available by the carafe too.


And another thing:​ Macellaio differentiate its offer at each site. Its Exmouth Market restaurant is big on fresh tuna, its Southwark restaurant has within it a traditional Ligurian bakery and the Store Street site has gone for pizza. Options include Jack and the Beanstalk (charcoal-grilled vegetables, tomato sauce and herb-infused oil) and Ice Ice Baby (pecorino and black pepper). The latter is topped with ice before cooking to "guarantee a soft centre and crispy outer crust".


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