Latest opening: KOYN

By Joe Lutrario

- Last updated on GMT

LSL Capital launch KOYN Japanese restaurant in Mayfair
Samyukta and Dinesh Nair’s latest restaurant sees the increasingly prolific LSL Capital take inspiration from Mount Fuji to explore Japanese cuisine.

What:​ A decidedly upscale modern Japanese restaurant in the heart of Mayfair just east of Grosvenor Square. Both the interior and the menu at KOYN - pronounced coin - are inspired by the duality of Japan’s famed Mount Fuji where a ‘lush Alpine environment peacefully co-exists with the fires raging below’. The food offer is consistent across the Grosvenor Street restaurant, but the space is split into two distinct areas: a first floor dining room called Midori that is representative of the top of the mountain and a ground floor space called Magma that takes its design cues from the active volcano below. 

Who:​ KOYN is the fourth restaurant from LSL Capital, which was co-founded by father-daughter duo Samyukta and Dinesh Nair a few year after they made their standalone London restaurant debut with top-end Mayfair Indian restaurant Jamavar in 2016. Two more Mayfair sites have followed: more casual Indian restaurant Bombay Bustle and - just last year - Chinese restaurant MiMi Mei Fair. According to Samyukta, LSL capital’s USP is that it can create vibey, lifestyle restaurants that also serve great food - two things that don't always go hand-in-hand in the W1 postcode. The kitchen is headed by New Zealand-born chef Rhys Cattermoul, who is a good fit for KOYN having spent much of his career cooking at Nobu (most recently, he was executive chef at the group’s Hong Kong outpost).  

The vibe:​ While it doubtless didn’t come cheap, KOYN is an impressive looking space with a design concept that at least partly addresses the challenge of creating restaurants that are suitable for relaxed daytime dining as well as more high-energy late night eating and drinking. The ground floor space is inspired by Japanese zen gardens and is a suitably calming in feel with a greeter’s desk sculptured from rough marble, iridescent oyster shell walls, green leather banquettes and a sushi counter. Down below within Magma the focal point is a robata grill with the overall feel much moodier and darker than upstairs.

Red-Mullet-Tempura

The food:​ As is typical of LSL Capital, the menu covers all bases and is big on luxury ingredients. Dishes include fresh tofu salad with wakame, konbu and sanbaizu; dry-aged seabass with Oscietra caviar, sweet shrimp and yuzu dashi soy; whole tempura red mullet with yuzu kosho tosazu and kombu salt; and A5 wagyu cooked and served on a hot stone with sea salt and wasabi. The savoury part of a meal at KOYN is recommended to be closed with a selection of sushi and sashimi that’s focused on sushi rolls and nigiri. Desserts include passion fruit pavlova; and matcha crème brûlée served with an almond chopstick.

To drink:​ Attention to detail is evident throughout the drinks list, with KOYN offering a selection of sake and wine that befits a high-end Mayfair Japanese restaurant as well as a creative selection of Japanese-inspired cocktails. 

And another thing:​ Samyukta and Dinesh will launch yet another Mayfair site in November. Socca will see the duo collaborate with high-profile French chef Claude Bosi​ to create a French Riviera-inspired restaurant. The launch will take LSL capital to five restaurants (and four cuisines) and cement its position as a key player in Mayfair’s rapidly evolving eating out scene.     

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