What was your first industry job?
Working as a kitchen porter and prep cook at a small American tapas restaurant in Nashua, New Hampshire. I worked my way up to becoming a regular line cook.
If you weren’t in kitchens, what would you do?
If I wasn’t in kitchens, I’m not sure what I’d do. I like a varied daily routine, so something involving lots of different tasks and skills would interest me. I’ve only realised that over time, though, so I might have ended up in something like accounting – but I’d probably have found my way back to cooking eventually.
What industry figure do you most admire?
I’ve always admired the chefs I’ve worked for, and making them proud has been a long-standing goal. I worked for Chef Chris Coombs in Boston, and his ability to start a business and grow within the industry was inspiring. Joké Bakare and her success with Chishuru is hugely inspiring too – from one Black owner-operator to another.
What’s your pet hate in the kitchen?
“I was told to do it this way.” That phrase always annoys me because it doesn’t encourage anyone to think for themselves or understand the why behind what they’re doing.
What’s the oddest thing a customer has said to you?
“Which one of you is Smoke, and which one is Salt?” – referring to me and my business partner, Aaron. I mean, clearly I’m the “Smoke”!
Sum up your cooking style in a single sentence
Cooking with a point of difference, using smoking and curing as key influences.
What’s the worst review you’ve ever had?
When we were starting out as a pop-up residency, we once forgot to turn off our booking platform when the venue was unavailable for brunch. Annoyingly, the guest had entered an incorrect phone number, so despite multiple emails we couldn’t reach them. We learned very quickly to stay on top of the booking system.
What advice would you give someone starting out in the industry?
“Work hard and find hard work.” It’s the quickest and most rewarding way to progress. Taking on jobs that are tougher than you’d like is a great way to learn new skills, learn from your mistakes and build confidence.
Which single item of kitchen equipment could you not live without?
A bench scraper – it lives by my side at all times. It’s great for pastry, picking up herbs, cleaning down sections and getting into the nooks and crannies of cake tins for snacks.
What would you choose to eat for your last meal?
Spicy lobster pizza.
À la carte or tasting menu?
By myself – tasting. With my wife on a special occasion – tasting. With my wife on a midweek night out – à la carte.
What’s the best meal you’ve ever had in a restaurant?
Craigie on Main, Cambridge, Massachusetts, in 2011 with my then girlfriend (now wife). Some of the most exciting and delicious food and flavours I’ve experienced.
What’s your favourite fast food joint?
Tasty Burger in Boston, MA. But honestly, Bleecker Burger also wears that crown.
What’s the dish you wish you’d thought of?
A bacon double cheeseburger – two of them, please – and angry fries.
MasterChef or Great British Menu?
I plead the fifth!
What’s the most overrated food?
Caviar.
You’re restaurant dictator for a day – what would you ban?
FOH not doing the dishes or staff meal.
Who would your dream dinner party guests be?
My mum, Anthony Bourdain, Joe Beef chef-owners Frédéric Morin and Allison Cunningham, and David Chang.
What’s your earliest food memory?
Making “ketchup” with chocolate. Not a proud moment.
TikTok or Instagram?
Instagram. TikTok is just… painful in ways I don’t quite understand.
What’s the closest you’ve ever come to death?
Having my car run over by a rapidly reversing oil tanker.
Where do you go when you want to let your hair down?
For a run. I always come back clearer – it’s a great way to reset and prioritise.
What’s your tipple of choice?
Bourbon – Buffalo Trace, ideally.
What’s your favourite food and drink pairing?
Nyetimber with buffalo hot wings.
What do you consider to be your signature dish?
Hard to choose between kids, but I’d argue that probably my favourite creation to date is our butternut squash roasted with a lavender and tamari glaze (char siu style), with shiso, brown butter hollandaise, pickles and pumpkin seed ’nduja.