The top line: Luke Selby, the former executive chef at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, has launched an intimate tasting menu concept at Palé Hall in North Wales. Called Hearth, the restaurant acts as a limbering-up exercise for a much larger fine dining project planned for the five-star Snowdonia property, which is set to launch towards the end of this year. The space functions both as an occasional restaurant and a development kitchen, and will continue to operate once the as-yet-unnamed flagship restaurant opens late this year. Selby officially joined Palé Hall at the start of this year after seeing out his role at Le Manoir, which held its final service on 31 December ahead of an 18-month redevelopment. The talented chef - who has been brought in by owners Anthony and Donna Barney to oversee all aspects of the property’s F&B offer - has already put his mark on the estate by rebooting The Bryntirion Inn, the 300-year-old pub with rooms located within the Palé Hall grounds
On the menu: Named Tir a Môr (Welsh for land and sea), Selby’s tasting menu combines Japanese precision with classical French technique, elevated by ‘some of the finest produce Wales has to offer’, including ingredients from Palé Hall’s own kitchen garden. Dishes include Porthilly oyster with apple and jalapeño; scallop sashimi with plum, shiso and olive oil; tempura lobster claw with miso and ginger; and Welsh lamb saddle with asparagus and wild garlic. The experience is priced at £340, though this includes Champagne on arrival and a full wine pairing, making it a fair price for a chef of Selby’s level.
The vibe: Hearth seats just 10 covers around a handsome oval table. A cooking range - a modified version of the house’s original cooking suite - is located at one end of the room in the. At the other, the eponymous fireplace serves as a wine serving station (pictured above). There is plenty else going on at the hotel, which sits on the edge of Snowdonia National Park close to the town of Bala. This year has already seen the unveiling of a newly renovated whisky lounge, the Jockey Bar, as well as a new gym and wellness facility operating out of a converted barn.
And another thing: For the moment, Hearth is open for a single service roughly every other month. So good luck getting a table.
www.palehall.co.uk / Palé Estate, Llandderfel, Bala, Gwynedd LL23 7PS